Who makes a good or decent CD recorder?

Marakanetz -- if there are problems with burning on a PC (read/write errors?) then blame the drive, not the PC! I personally think Lite-On makes the best CD drives and many of the "pro" CD burners use Lite-On drives!

As for your (disappointing) results burning copies on your Lenovo, well geez, what did you expect from that crappy little drive they have to cram into a laptop ;--)
As for Pro units, a composer friend who does a lot of film scoring swears by the HHB products (and he also has the Tascam stuff if he wants). I've never tried HHB, almost bought one on his rec. but never got to it.

Another way to reduces errors when burning discs (from your computer or a dedicated burner,) is keep the speed under 20X, under 12X if you're not in that big a hurry ;--)
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Tascam CD-RW900SL. Bought one this year and have been very pleased with it. We discussed it here, you might want to do a search.

Don't use a PC if you plan on playing it back on a high end rig. If youre plying in your car PC rips are fine but for a revealing system, they sound horrible. I have the Alesis Masterlink 9600 and it does excellent. Sound is probbaly better than the original if you use good blanks. I have been burning with my Masterlink onto Mofo gold CD/R for years and have never had an issue; awesome way to archieve vinyl as well.

Thanks for the input. I am leaning toward the TASCAM 900.

I have used a Marantz CDR-632 for about five years now. It is a "pro-sumer" model that uses music or data CD-Rs and CD-RWs. I use only the analog inputs to digitize analog sources. The sound is very good. While a recorded LP still sounds like a digitized LP, most usually sound better than the commercially released CD of the same album. The current Marantz, which shares an OEM platform with a TASCAM model, replaced the rather flimsy CD drawer of the 632 with a slot.

The remote and the ability to adjust the input level of each channel separately are big pluses for me.

One caveat: If you don't trust the auto-track marker, and I don't, you must monitor each recording carefully and manually insert the track breaks on the fly. If you screw up, you either accept it or start over. You could use a CD-RW, and then burn a copy once you get it right, I guess.