Ferrite Claps

I have H.T.Prosilway MK2 interconnects and was floored by them.I wanted a new power cord for my preamp outboard power supply so my dealer sent me a H.T.Pro-AC11 to try.Well,not floorded with these.Heard no difference over the stock cord.I had at least 200 hours on it also.Best place for power cords is source components(usually) As mine is a turntable I couldnt try it there so back the cord went.I was very disappointed!!

Sorry, I should have been clearer. Is your comment in terms of using ferrite chokes with up-market poewr cords? The ferrite always improved the stock cables. But I get mixed results with better power cords. Also, the $50 Highwire power cord wrap always worked better that the ferrite choke on AC cords.

My opinion is with the higher priced power cords they have alot of good EMI and RFI shielding built in.Chokes probably aren't required and Im not even sure if the chokes work on my stock cords anyway,but I still use them since they are so cheap at Radio Shack.

I bought some Ferrite clamps at Radio Shack and they worked great. I put one on the Amp power cord, one on the CD, and one on each speaker cable. The sound did get cleaner, though I am not sure where it helped the best. Another Tweak I used is to put some Dynamat pads (buy em at Crutchfield) on the inside of my CD player, which dampened a lot of resonance and gave me some deeper bass. I also cut some pads and put them on the back of my B&W DM603 S2 speakers, and WOW!!! Resonance was deeply cut, mid-range came soaring out, and bass extension went way down. The cabinet resonance was cut in half, and I'm now thinking about investing in some of those sorbothane sheets instead of the Dynapads. But if you have big floorstanders with MDF cabinets, try the Dynamat pads.

I've used the Tekna-sonic vibration dampers from Audio Advisor on speakers and on electronics. They even work just laying them on component shelf. They act (and look) like a radiator for vibration