Looking for guidance with older VPI HW-19 tables

I have a MK II 1/2 (I'll explain) which I'm looking to sell. Have all the springs but I also experimented with the "noodles" in place of the springs and instead of the feet. You can have those too.Email me and I'll give you more info on my experiences.

Also try and get one with the lead platter (old TNT platter) its really good Perhaps the Mk4 is the best to go for
Read Arthur Salvatore site around the HW19 plenty of good avice there

I disagree about buying an unsprung table. In my experience, wether you like the sound of the HW19 with springs or not completely depends on what you are sitting the table on, and wether your floors are springy or not etc. Much harder to come by a set of springs after the fact than to get (or constuct) something to use instead of springs. So, if you have the option, get one with springs. That way you have the option to experiment. I owned one for many years, and switched from springs to pucks to cones and back at least four times; all depending on the setup.

The HW19 is a terrific table, and for the money just about impossible to beat IMO. Many upgrade options available. The HW19Jr is not in the same class as the regular HW19, specially the MK4 with heavier platter. The standard lead filled/cork bottom platter of the HW19 is very good.

As far as the bearing goes, this is a simple test that has worked for me: disengage the belt and give the platter a good spin. Put your ear close to the platter. You should hear NO grinding or swishing noises at all. The platter should take at least a solid minute to come to a complete stop; two minutes or more is ideal. Feel free to email me for more personal experiences.

Good luck.

Mingles,please keep us informed as to your progress in this matter.Regards,Tom

If you're seeking a VPI HW-19 without being previously drilled for an Arm, it will be an easier matter seeking a version that has the Steel Sub-Chassis, and seperate Armboard. A new Black Acrylic Armboard can be dupicated-copied, and re-drilled for whatever Arm you like, by either you, or a competent machinist-carpenter.

Basically, there's only three things that might wear on the non-inverted older VPI Bearings, the Bottom Thrust Plate, the Upper Bushing, and the little 1/2" Ball Bearing that resides on the bottom of Bearing Shaft.

As for what services VPI now presently provides, these may be good questions to pose them. I would suspect that the little screw in Thrust Plates are available, and VPI may still offer Platter Bearing repair if it is needed.

Bushing materials for the Bearing Well could've consisted of a number of materials over the years, Bronze, Nylon, Rulon. Again, if VPI no longer does such work, this is not beyond a competent machinist.

Lack of lubrication, meaning a neglected Bearing would of course show more wear to Thrust Plate, and Bushing Surface. These should of course wear first. if there's wear on the Bearing Shaft, this would probably tell me that the Bearing was indeed severely neglected.

Te MK-IV version would be ideally the one to get, and can come with either the original MK-IV all Acrylic Lead filled Platter, or a combination of Acrylic-Aluminum, most likely meaning its the older TNT Platter. With these heavier Platters, I'm sort of doubting how well "Pool Noodles" will support a heavy Plinth with Subchassis, and a heavy Platter.

The stock Motor is still available, is nothing more than a 600 rpm Hurst AC Synchronous, and the SAMA I undserstand is available as well.

If you browse the list, you'll see what still can be gotten, but there may be a number of little parts, whatnot, that might still be gotten? Mark