Power Cords Snake Oil ??


Having been a long time audiophile living with countless high end compnents I have to wonder about the theory and practicality of high end power cords.

I have yet to hear the difference a power cord makes. Ive owned, synergistic, Shunyata, BMI and cardas. I in no way can detect any sonic signature or change. Give me a pair of interconnects and I imeadiately notice a difference somewhere in the sonic spectrum. Not the PC though. I have accomplished 4 blind tests with my friends. 3 out of the 4 they did not know their cord was replaced. All 4 were using a stock factory supplied cord. Each of the 4 tests were done on different components. Amp, CDP, Preamp & dac.

My electrical backround tells me that provided you supply the component with its required voltage bet 110vac or 220/240vac its happy. Now, change the incoming frequency from 60hz to say 53hz and watch how quickly your soundstage collapses.! This is often the case during the summer months when home air conditioners are in use and the utility company power output is taxed to the max. A really good power conditioner should however take care of the frequency fluctuations. But 110vac is still 110vac regardless of the conductor it passes through as long as its remains 110vac when it reaches the intended circuit. Does your 8k amp or preamp know the difference of the path the voltage took to reach it ? Many an audiophile will use a dedicated 20amp circut for their equipment.That is a good idea as voltage & frequency fluctuations will occur in the home circuit to to other loads on the main breaker panel but again, A power cord simply is the means of transporting the voltage from the wall to the component. IF there is a clean 110vac @ 60hz at the wall socket, no matter what the medium is to go from the socket to the component, it will still be 110vac @60hz.

Could somebody expand on this a bit more. I just dont understand it. ??
128x128jetmek
Hi all,

Although I have never posted on the forums, I am a veteran of the Audiogon site, having bought and sold several pieces of mid to hi end equipment over the years. I'm also a member of the Audiophile Society in town, and I get to CES every year since 2000. (I say all of that as a point of reference only .) I happen to own Sahuaro Snake Oil, uh, I mean Cables :) in my system, which includes: KR Antares Amp, Joule Electra LA150 preamp, Richard Kern-modified Sony 777-SACD, and a Kuzma Stabi TT, all running through BPT 3.5 Sig. line conditioning (except amp). I haven't tried everything, but I have tried Cardas, JPS, Tice, Nordost etc ....
and for me, there is NOTHING that compares to the resolution, clarity, detail, and pure emotional involvement of my system with this cabling. It's not close.. I have personally been at CES for several "AB" tests between Sahuaro and the "hot cabling du jour", with results being so lopsided that there wasn't even any lively discussion involved.. While I appreciate the apprehension expressed here, it really does come down to the "music" ...
All I can say is try out the Prethrilla or Ampthilla - you get 30 days to check it out. What's there to lose? Call or email Lon at audiolon.com - he can help you. (I am NOT affiliated with anyone btw, but Lon is a pal) Also, there are other opinions at http://hometheatertalk.com/httalk/viewtopic.php?t=3541&highlight=sahuaro from John Beavers, and at audioasylum, there's plenty of discussion also...

FWIW
Alan (not to be confused with Alan Kafton, who is an aquaintance of mine ...:)
Kt 88:
The lab amp, which we built, sits on a 1 ½” thick solid walnut plinth. Its transformer is separated from the electronics; the rectifier bridge is a soft recovery design. We spent 6 months developing the emitters made from resistive copper wire rather than nichrome; the diameter and length were tuned to the amp’s performance. To our knowledge this had never been done before. We recently discovered that YBA’s top of the line $35,000 amp has the emitters removed completely from their transistor design which is even better. Tube designs don’t use emitters but they have to deal with output transformer problems. We used Hovland’s best film and foil capacitors and Vishay’s best resistors. The transformer and power supply were wired with very heavy gage solid core with an isolated symmetrical configuration; the transformer temperature is controlled by constant convection flow. We have compared this amp with CJ’s and many others; bottom line: there is no comparison. CJ will probably tell you if they built an amp like that it would cost a fortune. We have no plans to sell this amp but 6 years ago when we built it the projected price was about $6500; in today’s market it would be a bit more.
I’ve followed this thread for awhile but hesitated to join in. It almost read like a private email exchange of ideas due to the character of the responses.

Some of what every member has posted seems factual (at least part of it, based on my experience). I don’t understand the string theory bit, but that last post by Corona makes sense. I can see how some of these ideas put into practice could result in a significantly better sounding amp.

As for his comments about power cords and his speakers, I have no experience to go by. I do know that the type and design of power cords plugged into my Soundlabs (they pull one eighth of one watt) make a huge difference. It should not, but every person who sits listening while I pull one and replace with another always laughs in disbelief.

I try different cables when people I respect tell me they’re worth listening to. That’s how I found most of the equipment in my system.

I know nothing about the cable Corona is talking about and even less about the theory describing why it works. I do know that most cable sounds different from each other and some is a great deal better than another.

At one time in my audio career I refused to believe that any power cord could matter. To me, this was like kids putting giant mufflers and four inch outlets at the end of their one inch exhaust system. How the heck could it help after all that small pipe?

In spite of it seeming ridiculous, power cords make a big difference. The amount of difference depends on the equipment, quality of the system, the cable design, the quality of your in wall wiring and the service provider. It’s no wonder this is the most hotly debated topic. It’s unlikely any two of us have identical situations to draw results from.

My decision is as always. I test by listening and deciding if the amount of money involved is worth making the change. Not very scientific, but the music always benefits doing it this way.
Albert, I think your method of choice is plenty scientific, or at least as scientific as choosing a cord based solely on 'scientific' notions of what 'should' be the case without listening. And the fact is, enjoyment is enjoyment, whether we can 'prove' we hear a difference or whether we can only *say we think* we hear a difference.

I have no doubt that if Corona's cables are physically unique in *any* way compared to all other cables, then they may - even probably will - sound different from all other cables to a greater or lesser degree. I say this about *any* brand of cable, or indeed any piece of audio gear period. But I realize that even were I to subjectively come to the conclusion after auditioning that Corona's cables were the best-sounding (to me) cables in the world, that fact *still wouldn't* validate his claims about *why* they might be the best. And I *still wouldn't* place any credence, only discredit, in his (non-specific at best, deviously misleading at worst, and completely ascientific any way you look at it) invoking of untestable String Theory to explain the differences.