Wall Outlet Oyaide, Furutek, Wattgate, and others

I decided on getting the furetech GTX-D recepticle gold, the spring clamping and the way the conductor is put in a hole on the back, then tighten the screw on the side all the way down on the raw electrical conductor was the deciding factor to me, I believe this will sound better just by the way it is designed, cheers.

http://www.hubbellcatalog.com/wiring/datasheet.asp?PN=HBL5361

Side and back mounts for wire. You can clamp just the bare wire. All brass non ferrous. The parts/screws that are magnetic you can replace with brass. 6-8 US on Ebay and then you can have a whole bucket full cryo'd for cheap. These sound really good. Lower resonance than a standard duplex. Tom

Hi

For The Elrod Statement Gold yours vote GO to Furuteck FI48 or FI50?
Gold or Rodium?

Mehdi, It depends if you need a more forward presatation that Rhodium does, The gold will give a little more laid back sound, which is what I like, I believe the FI50 Gold would be spot on, power cables already give a little imeadiate presatation to me, I would hate it if the sound was in my face at all times, that would cause listener fatigue to me, so my opinion would be, go Furetech gold fI50.

I have discussed power outlets with an audio equipment manufacturer who likes the Furutech GTX-D (G) outlets. Not sure all that he has tried but he definitely likes the Furutech outlets. I use Porter Ports and have no complaints, but have not tried either the Furutech or Oyaide.

Regarding resistance, I recently had a high current amplifier rebuilt for me and when selecting power cords I chose a good sounding Neotech cord (using OCC wire, double shielding, etc.) but the cord I had was "only" 11 awg so I asked the builder whether I needed a larger gauge cord and he replied that the 11 gauge size was more than large enough.

I think audiophiles sometimes believe their gear needs more current than is actually necessary. For example, even the largest high current Class A amps I have owned only had 8 amp fuses, even though I ran them off of dedicated 20 amp lines, one for each monoblock. It is my understanding that it would be unusual for amplifiers to draw that amount of current and certainly not for any sustained period of time. The actual current needed for playing music is much lower but in the larger amps the power supply capacitors can discharge larger amounts of current for transient demands.

I do believe stable power is important so my recommendation is always to put money into dedicated audio lines (before buying fancy power cords) so you don't have to worry about lights or refrigerators powering on while playing music. One thing I did with my amp was to have the builder hard wire the Neotech power cord (I know...retro) because I believed that by starting with a pretty high quality cord in the first place, my next best upgrade would be to eliminate a plug and IEC entirely. It also helps me resist the temptation to buy new power cords!