Who will survive? One last table til I die.


I want to buy a final turntable (call it 25 years worth of use until I can't hear or don't care). I want to be able to get parts and have it repaired for the next quarter century. I would also like the sound quality to be near the top or upgradable to near the top for that time period. I don't necessarily require that the manufacturer be solvent that long (the preferable situation), but otherwise the parts would have to be readily available and the design such that competent independent repair shops be able to fix it. I won't spend more than $10,000 and prefer (but don't require) an easy set up that doesn't need constant tweaking. I'm willing to pay for the proper stand and isolation needed over and above the initial cost.

I've got 9,000 LPs, and it doesn't make sense to start over replacing them with CD/SACDs (although I have decent digital equipment) even if I could find and afford replacements. Presently I have a CAT SL-1 III preamp and JL-2 amp, Wilson speakers, Sota Cosmos table, SME IV arm, and Koetsu/Lyra Clavis/AQ7000nsx cartridges.

Thanks in advance for your input. Steve
suttlaw
Raul,

Yes, I know that tubes are voltage devices. Bipolar transistors are current devices and mosfet transistors are voltage devices like tubes. Yes the theory of operation is different but the application is still very similar. You use a small current or voltage to control a larger voltage or current. And though bipolar and mosfet transistors operate on different principles they end up sounding much the same. And neither has linearity that is even close to that of a vacuum tube. This is all quite irrelevant to this discussion.

The topic of complementary devices is another red herring. It just makes it easy to implement a push-pull topology without using a transformer or coupling capacitor. The push pull topology does cancel distortions but also has it's own set of advantages and disadvantages. Push pull is widely used with both tube and transistor equipment so it has nothing to do with the topic at hand.

You are really in the weeds when you imply that non-feedback is practically gospel. Please name a single commercial transistor amplifier that uses no global feedback. For that matter name a single non-triode tube amp with no feedback. Reduced feedback is an often cited goal but with the vast majority of amplifiers the sound would sound awful without any feedback.

The intent of my post was to counter your outrageous assertion that tube amplifiers are frequency equalizers and therefore unsuitable. You countered with a number of irrelevant facts (some of which were also wrong) but never came back with any justification for your position. If you are going to make sweeping authoritative statements then I suggest that you be ready to defend them.

Personally I love the sound of tubes and in particular single ended triodes with no feedback. So does that give me license to say that transistor amps suck? Or that anyone that likes transistor amps is uninformed and/or can't hear? I have plenty of tolerance and even appreciation for people that have different preferences and views. But my tolerance for those that impose their views on others is pretty thin.

Chris
Anybody notice how Raul's English improved about an order of magnitude in that last post? Interesting...
Indeed. One wonders who actually wrote it. Is some SS amp builder ghosting for Raul?
Raul- Would love to test it for three months. Everyone else uses their system as their reference point- what is YOUR reference point for your own personal state-of-the-art, zero feedback, solid state amp/pre/phono?

After all, I wouldn't want to start my testing with something less than the same equipment you have so as to be fair. Maybe you could let me know what speakers you have, too, to further reduce trial and error.

Regards
Jim

Raul, anyone who thinks that the location and order of harmonic distortion is "not matters", has no clue of what harmonic distortion is, nor how it affects a musical presentation. Please bone up on it, and try again.

Regarding the 1.8 ohm output impedance of my amplifier, I use 8 ohm speakers which provides a damping factor greater than 4, so it works as well for speaker control and frequency response as any SS amp with any kind of damping factor. Any damping factor greater than 4 is immaterial and makes no discernable difference in the amplifier's ability to control the speaker. The frequency response of my amp is totally unaffected by speaker reactance in my particular system, so it doesn't matter what Stereophile says about amps with 3 ohm output impedance and poorly designed highly reactive speakers. If you notice the Stereophile chart, the impedance peaks that are imposed on the very poor example they chose to use, are at the resonant freq.(F3) of the driver, and at the cabinet tuning point. In the case of my system, my frequency response starts above both of those points, and have no effect in my system. But since you are not a speaker designer(and apparently not an amp designer either) I wouldn't expect you to know about that, any more than you know about the subject we are discussing.

The "very high output impedance" as you put it, has no bearing at all on anything, until you connect a speaker to it. That is when the damping factor is defined, and not until then. If I attached a speaker with a 0.1 ohm load to a SS amp with a 0.05 ohm output impedance, then the damping factor of the SS amp would suck(with that speaker). If you actually knew anything about this parameter, then you would not make statements such as you do.

I actually think that you know very little about audio. You read a few things, and think you know what you are talking about. Your statements give you away.

By the way, we are all still waiting for you to reveal the contents of your "highly musical" solid state system that will be revealing of the "true music" that you think we all are lacking in our systems.

You know, not only are you seriously lacking in audio knowledge, but you are very abrasive, rude, and arrogant. You seem to think that it is ok to ignore anyone else's points, can never debate an opposing position with facts, and simply repeat your own flawed opinions, in the attempt to look important. This is really sad. I like to engage in vigorous audio debate, but I prefer to do so with someone who knows what he is talking about. Unfortunately, you do not.

I'd suggest quite a bit more study before engaging any serious audiophiles here again. You really do need it.