Why Can We plug our AMPS directly into wall w/o Worrying?

Hi Baz; many, including me, have found that power conditioners can limit the power an amplifier can draw and also affect its sound quality/character. I had a Tice E-4 power conditioner that could not handle my big McCormack DNA-2DX (600 wpc, 4 Ohms) and it "colored" the music in a detrimental way. Steve McCormack recommended plugging the DNA2 directly into the wall-- dedicated outlets or not. And later when I installed a dedicated AC system, I definitely preferred to have all of my components plugged directly into the wall, and ended up selling the Tice.

The Tice was a good power conditioner, but it was really meant for something like HT rather than a highly resolving stereo system. I do feel that my system IS vulnerable to such things as lightning strikes-- which makes me nervous, and like you I'm considering a PS Audio 300 for transport, DAC, and pre-amp, but not for my amp. Some of the big expensive power conditioners, such as the Shunyata Hydra are not supposed to limit current, but I personally believe that anything in the audio chain (including incoming AC) is going to have an affect on music. So as usual we're left with "buy and try", audition etc.

However, some places, including PS Audio will let you audition, and when I've got the bucks, I'll do that with their 300. Big amps are a special case because they can draw so much power. Many power conditions can handle the load of small to medium amps, but it's likely that they are still going to color the music-- you just have to decide whether or not you like, or can live with the colorations. BTW this is also true of plugging other components into power conditions, and that was my experience with the Tice E-4. For the last 1 1/2 years I've been having "unprotected" music ;>). You're on the right track, you just need to do some auditioning of power conditioners with spike/surge protection. I need to do it too.

I would just add that the Monster HTS 1000/2000 series power conditioners are supposed to be tonally neutral, are inexpensive, and can easily handle at least front ends, pre-amps etc. I have an HTS 1000 that I plug accessories into, but haven't tried it with important components yet. One of the major mags recommended the HTS 2000 also. Cheers. Craig

Baz,
As Garfish intimates, "clean power" is important where the chain is most vulnerable: pre, digital front-end, etc. Power amps are less vulnerable (they usually have very large power supplies of their own), but they DO need to draw current -- hence the advice to plug directly to wall. Given the (often) high current (or voltages), power amps are also supplied with protection circuits that can save them in cases of surges (hopefully!). Finally, many power amps can reach optimum operation level from cold within ~hour; so, less need to leave them on all the time and unattended.
Cheers!

Every component can benefit from cleaner electric power, but digital components seem to benefit the most. It's interesting to note that power conditioners did not become popular until digital components were widely used. I suspect digital components are the major internal causes of electrical noise in home systems.

At one time I used an API Power Wedge and I was never truly certain if it was limiting the sound of the power amps (Rowland Model 1 or Pass Aleph 5). Regardless, I plugged them into the API because I perceived the surge protection as more important than the small, if any, detrimental sonic impact. I currently use a PS600 and I can detect no negative effect on amplifier performance. I am passively bi-amping my speakers and I plug both a JRDG Concentra integrated and a Model 112 power amp into the PS600. With no music the system shows 190 watts on the PS600's display. Loud music (up to low 90dBs) only raises the display to 240-260. I've never tripped the PS600's overload circuit. My speakers are 4 ohm designs with 89dB sensitivity.