Rowland --- older amps vs the newer models?


Curious to hear from the Rowland fans with regard to the newest models....501/201 - ICE....I've always heard glowing reports of older Rowland model (single digit ones) but little about the latest. Best to stick with the earlier versions?
hstokar
Well, I can not speak for Jeff, but YES! If you can tolerate the weight, the mechanical hum (damn hard to get rid of it), not to mention that you can't place it near the anlog front-end (electrical hum), then I would concur that choke inputs are better.

Why?

Lots of reasons.

One, current peaks on the transformer are much lower. This helps to reduce gabage created by the recitifiers switching on and off.

Two, it adds ripple reduction. Back when all we had was tube amps, with wimpy little filter caps, we had to use choke input supplies. Somehow, things still managed to sound good. Right?

Yeah, I know.....only two reasons. Yes, but. There are sublte interactions between transformer VA rating and core utilisation, peak charging curents, filter cap size and ESR/ESL, that can not be easily explained. (Trust me, ok?) You could spend a lifetime building amps, and not be able to explain or predict how it all works.

Anyway, the Far East market is very demanding. If Jeff said that his agents there kvetched about hum, then I would take that as gospel.

As for batteries:

I know it sounds counter-intuitive, but batteries sound noisy. I realise in many circles that is the hot mod of choice, but listen to one long enough, and you will concur. Sure, no 120 Hz ripple, but that may be its only advantage.

I believe the SMPS that Jeff uses employs a technique called "power factor correction". To the user, how it actually works should not be important. What should be important is that it should reduce noise generated in the AC/DC process.
Ar t, that's a good description of the differnces between choke and other power supplies. Oddly, I am not bothered by the weight, of course it helps that my brother helps me lift the darn thing.
Regarding the hum, I have always taken care to support the amp on a good amp stand( zoethecus) and to make sure that it is not close to any analog devices. Also, I know that if i.e. a low powered halogen is on in the house that that will be a major source of hum.
The top plate mod is a very good mod for this amp though, because the choke seems to need an extreemly rigid chassis.
sirspeedy, in truth, I have not heard your version of the amp( only the single chassis version, which as I stated above, the choke is better IMHO) I would think that a dual chassis design with power supply in seperate chassis would be beneficial.
Have you A/B'ed your current amp against the single chassis choke of your friend.Does he have top-plate mod, because if not he should be recommended to get it.
Have any of you guys ever compared something like the 8T or 9T to a current Krell cx amp?
I should qualify my question: Looking at the used market, I have found myself drawn towards larger amps in the 4-5K price range. I want a high current delivery stereo amp, and the only other requirement for me is the ability to turn it on and off remotely via a trigger because of my installation. Currently I am using Legacy Focus 20/20 speakers that seem to thrive on current and the 8t appears to fit that criteria, along with the Krell FBP-300CX and 400CX, and also Levinson and perhaps Pass Labs amps.

Unfortunately I just cannot audition most of these amps, especially the older Rowland amps, so it becomes a bit of a guessing game, and a high dollar one at that.

I have never heard the 8t, that is why I asked the question above.