Krell FPB 600c 700cx 400cx Heatsink noises.


In 2001 I bought my complete new Krell cast music system: Krell FPB 600c amplifier, Krell KCT preamp and Krell KPS28c cd-player .Siltech cast interlinks. Speakers are JM Lab Utopia with Transparent ref.XL loudspeaker cables. However I certainly have the feeling that all the manufacturing dollars have been spent on sonically critical design elements,there is a mechanical problem,which is bothering me since the moment of purchase.Two or three times during a listening session the metal construction of the heated amplifier cabinet in operational mode makes a sound (tsssjakkk).Probably because the difference in heat of the heatsinks and/or heavy gauge alluminium chassisplates. When I bring the amp in stand by position after listening,this mechanical sound is there also ,several times. I phoned the Krell service department in 2002.Irving Gross told me that it was a diffraction problem.(traction and contraction of the heated amplifier cabinet.) The service department advised me to tighten all the bolts of the heatsinks. It did not help. During the upgrade from 600c to 700cx,end 2002, I told the German importer about the problem. He admitted that this diffraction problem was a tough one to solve.I had the hope that the problem would have been gone after the X-Upgrade but unfortunately it did not. In the english Hi-Fi News magazine of december 2005 (page 28/Howard's Way) I read an article about a former owner of the Krell 400cx."I sometimes got noise from the heatsinks through heating and cooling." He finally could not live with it and sold the amp. My question is ;does anyone has the same problem with this Krell FPB amplifier(600c,400cx or 700cx)? More important, which owner has a smart suggestion to eliminate this undesirable mechanical'vibration'. Otherwise...I figure I have to live with it, which I can because I simply love the sound of my complete Krell cast system.
paulinemarcel8390
Hello,
Surely,I put the washers between the bolt head and the plates!
The temperature did not change.

Just read from my new ASR Emitter II exclusive manual:

Noise from the main unit while warming up/cooling down - remedy loosen the screws located in the heatsinks of the front-and/r backplate of the ASR.

But happily it was not needed -my unit is completely silent!
F.
Thanks Bob R. I remember that thread but cannot find it anymore.

Peter, you are using the Ref. 3 and I have been considering the LS25 MkII. Did you have to have anything done to your 700CX when you got the Ref 3? Do you know if the LS-25 MkII would be OK without changing the inputs on the Krell?

Sorry everyone about the highjack...I always worry about the "anti-krell" crowd when posting anything referring to "Krell" in the title of a thread. Sad but true.
Hi I did do nothing to my FPB700CX. It just works fine. The LS-25 or 26 will also work without problems. The Krell will for sure not go broken.

Well I know there is a lot of anti Krell crowd but their power amps are world class. I had Classe, Levinson, Pass, Chord ad many more. Nothing even comes close to the FPB700CX. The new Krells sound very sweet in the midrange and have a very controlled bass. Also it is just very enjoyable to listen. Also their CD players and preamps are very very good. I had KCT, KPS28C, FPB700CX together and the sound is close to perfect. But the Wadia 581 + Audio research Ref3 is still a little better tha KCT + KPS28C.

Other amplifiers are good as well but to my taste I prefer Krell.

Peter
There is a super easy fix for this! Loosen the heat sink bolts just a slight amount each and the problem will be gone. I specialize in thermal engineering so I know all about it. It won't hardly change your thermal impedance so don't worry about that. Mechanical resonance is a lot more sensitive to contact pressure than thermal resistance is.

I am surprised Krell told you to tighten the bolts. That is totally against the laws of physics and will never solve the issue (as was found out). The ASR guys however, they did their homework. Hard to beat those Germans.

Arthur
Aball, that makes sense. I am going to do that very thing this weekend and will report back. NOw if I can just find my torx drivers...

Hopefully it will be obvious as to where the bolts are located and not require further diassembly.