Conrad Johnson PV-10A mod experiences?


Has anyone had experience performing a mod on the CJ PV-10A? I'm fond of this preamp, it has that wonderful tube openness and sweetness for harmonics. However over the past 6 months as I've delved into PC audio and DAC improvements, I've come to realize two things about it

1) its slow on transients
2) its dynamically compressed.

I'm using Mullard NOS tubes throughout as these seem wonderfully detailed with excellent base.

Since the preamp is built like an engineering prototype (overbuilt)my gut hunch is that some caps have aged (circa 1993)and need replacement, specifically the white CJ caps
and am thinking about replacing them first with Multicaps.

Wondering if anyone has experience trying to revitalize a PV 10A?
128x128davide256
I used Black Gate caps when they were available to replace the lytics. Someone told me Jentsen work well. The tubes you're using are good. I'm sure the sound will tighten up if you replace the electrolytics. I use RCA NOS 12 au7 cleartop, mullards are probably better.
WHICH MultiCaps???????????????????????? There are several versions.

The RTXs, 'styrenes, are VERY-good-sounding caps and do indeed require a hundred or 2 hours to break-in and sound their best. The metalized PPMFXs are entry-level-hi-end caps, ones I'd never use unless low cost were the primary goal, and then I still wouldn't use them, I'd use SoniCap gen.1s. I think the PPMFXs, if that's what you used, will sound a bit edgy forever.
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looks like its the usual with audio, fix 1 problem only to reveal another. I've known for a while that I need to send my Sota back for a new bearing but with the old caps the problem hadn't been "glaring". I've swapped in my backup AR ES turntable and the problem is gone albeit nowhere near as silky in sound as the Sota. As to caps used they are the RTX Multicaps. so will let this ride for 100 hrs or so of play and see what happens. I do have to admit the VCAPs (teflon/w tin foil)have my curiosity piqued, but that would run about $330 for the 4 required bypass caps vs the $50 for the Multicaps I paid.
Those white capacitors you are referring to are teflon capacitors, they last indefinitely; it's the two electrolytic capacitors that need changing. Find the best capacitors of the same value and replace them
Just getting back to this thread after a while. The small white caps in the PV-10A were
definitely toast. As to being teflon, thats speculative. From the era the PV-10A was made in
they might have been Wonder caps or they could have been rebadged Rel caps
based on materials construction.
After break in the RTX Multicap replacements had solved much of the dynamic range issues but the high frequencies were still soggy (splat, not snap). Both the mains and phono section have a pair of 2uf capacitors in their output stage. I decided on the mains to replace those first with Solens polypropylene and tinfoil caps, 2uf / 400VDC, SE Series. These I installed last night and they immediately made a big difference in high frequency range
and crispness of percussion transients. Still not getting quite the low base response I can
get by going DAC direct to amp but above 40hz all appears right now. Will let this bake
another 30 days and update