Scott 222 B tube amp

You did well on the price!- properly refurbished they can be quite nice sounding. However unless you have it on good information that the unit has been recently serviced, I would not run it until you have the power supply rebuilt with new filter caps and have the unit checked over, else the power transformer could be damaged.

With a new set of filter capacitors and other relatively minor service issues taken care of, you can expect the amp to be reasonably reliable for another 20 years or so.

We've been doing a lot of work like this in the last few years but anyone familiar with servicing tube amps should be able to take care of it. I would allow for at least $200 to get things taken care of, although it could go higher than that if the tubes have to be replaced.

You need to be a-bit DIY to handle this amp. The cap banks that most-likely need to be replaced are not cheap and might cost more than you would pay for the amp, but $75 is a great price even for the partially functional unit.
I agree with Mechans that this amp is great for near-field, but should probably mention that built quality of this amp is superior to the modern tube amps.

Frogman

How slowly are you suggesting?

Minutes? Hours?

It's normally takes 3 min to 'fill up' caps. This much time I guess is needed.

04-27-11: Samhar
How slowly ... ?
Minutes? Hours?

Hours, perhaps 8 hours or even more, if the piece may not have been turned on for decades.

That allows the electrolytic capacitors to "reform," and can often (depending on many variables) make it possible to avoid having to replace them.

I've had many experiences with 1950's and 1960's tube audio components, as well as 1930's antique radios, where, having done that, it has not been necessary to replace those capacitors.

During that process, temperatures of the power transformer and the electrolytic caps (the ones that are enclosed in cans on top of the chassis, only!!) should be checked by hand periodically, because of the damage possibility that Ralph mentioned. Ideally, ac current draw should be monitored during the process as well, with the voltage not being raised to the next increment unless the current draw is stable for some period of time at the previous increment.

And of course before any of this is done, a check should be performed to verify that there is not a short between ac and chassis. AC leakage to chassis should also be monitored as full voltage is approached.

All of these things can be done with an instrument such as this one, which is what I use. An inexpensive variac and a multimeter would probably be good enough in most cases, though.

The OP may find this thread on vintage audio to be of interest.

Regards,
-- Al