Preamp Deal of the Century


If anyone is looking for a true "World Class" preamp at a very fair price..heed my advice. I just recieved a Supratek Syrah preamp that was hand built by Mick Maloney in Western Australia, and it is absolutely beautiful! This preamp is the best deal you will ever find. I would put it up against any preamp out there for both looks and sound. Price? $2500 for the Syrah (includes Killer Phono stage). Not into phono? Try the Chardonney line stage for $2100. Don't get me wrong, I am not associated with this company. I am just a very happy owner! This preamp is VERY dynamic, yet liquid. It conveys the sound of music better than any other preamp that I have ever heard! You can check out the Supratek website at www. cantech.net.au
slowhand
Hello All, The tube line up in my Chenin is as follows.....Power supply, a superb [well burnt in] 1954 Bendix 6106. Regulators, A very early mirror matched pair of Sylvania 6F6Gs, clear glass ,old style round logo and etched base,very handsome looking .These are one of two pairs of 6F6gs I have.The Bendix and 6f6gs are [outstanding] inexpensive up grades in over all performance of the Chenin.6SN7s,A good pair of Tungsol black glass round plates.For me ,vocals have to sound right.With the Tungsols in place,Ella,Nat Cole,Sarah Vaughn ect.ect.are truly superb.One recent L.P. purchase,Joan Baez,Diamonds and Rust.The recording is one of the top best I have,the vocals captured on this L.P.are truly uncanny.I had a pair of Sylvania tall glass metal base in place afew months ago along with a used Dutch made bugal boy metal base GZ-34.Listening to Rock,Pink Floyd, Yes, The Who ect,I never heard them like this on a two channel system.It was a heavy experience.On Jazz and Folk,it was not as involving as my current choice of tubes .The phono stage,I use a mirror matched pair of 1949 R.C.A. black plate 6C4s and a pair of Philips Miniwatt S.Q. gold pins,the test values on these Miniwatts are outstanding.I did more switching of power supply tubes then any others in my Chenin.For me ,the Bendix is the one.One final note , my pre. is quiet as a church mouse...Love it.
Hi Gang: Yes indeed, quiet 6sn7's are hard to find and all of that family of tubes tend to be somewhat prone to microphonics. Herbies tube dampeners are a blessing here as well as isolation. The Metal base GZ-34/5ar4 is without doubt the finest sounding of that family of rectifiers. When using substitute rectifiers like the 5v4,gz33,5z4,gz37,6106 etc,it is imperative that they test above 95% and both sides measure the same. The chugging sound some are experiencing here when playing vinyl is due to the excessive voltage drop of the rectifier type used. Insert a weak rectifier of any type and you may experience this artifact regardless of type, however the gz34/5ar4 will not exhibit this trait until it's much weaker than the others.Furthermore, ones choice of regulation tubes will not have any impact on this artifact. While a weaker rectifier may work in many other applications... they will be of marginal success in any of the supratek's that employ a phono stage. I have a nos Valvo gz-34 [test's just below 90%]that I use in a pair of vintage siemens klangfilm amps and they ehibit this trait in both the cortese and the syrah when using the phono stage. I also experience the same thing with a nos 5v4 and a Bendex 6106 and they both test above 90%. " Important Note"... all of the rectifiers that are employed in the supratek's are of the "indirectly heated" full wave variety, the 5y3gt mentioned else where is a "directly heated" rectifier type and not recommended. The use of directly heated rectifier types in the suprateks will eventually strip the cathodes of your other tubes. Not a good thing for those employing rare and expensive nos tubes. A directly heated rectifier will cause premature tube life with the other tubes as the getter of the tubes is used up quickly releasing gas in the tube.When cold,the gas molecules are struck by high energy electrons from the cathode, being positive they are attracted to the negative grid. The gas molecules will shoot right past the grid and onto the cathode,and therefore eventually eroding the cathode surface and compromises the life of the tubes. The other tubes employed in the preamp should not have instantanious voltage applied until they are warm, this allows the tubes getter to absorb the gas molecules that have accumulated from that last use of the preamp.
The last several posts have been most valuable to me. Thanks to all of you!
Hi Guys,
great posts.
Loving my Syrah.
Just bought another pair of Sylvania 6GK5s & a pair of Western Electric 5842s for the phono section.
The 6GK5s are duplicates of whats in place. The Western Electrics seem to hang an image centrally a bit better than
the Raytheons it came with. Tried some Creatura tube dampers on the 5842s - they have worked well for me in the past but I worry the valves are so small, the dampers may be
making them run too hot?
Not tried the NOS MullardGZ34 yet as the guy I bought it from said the 5AR4 was better - maybe the Mullard is below par?
As a matter of habit I have sat both pre & psu on Final Labs Dharumas so that both units 'float'. I can feel no vibration getting to the units even in my small listening room.
The new pairs of valves were bought as one or more of the valves in the phono section was a bit noisy - nothing too troublesome - the new ones have the same problem - ah well I knew I would have to buy at least 3 different pairs to get a quiet set !
Love the amp & can't wait to try some different power cords - using a PS Statement at the moment but will probably end up using a Shunyata of some description to keep
synergy with the rest of the system.
Tried the gain setting at 3 which gives solidity to the sound but bloats the bass a bit over setting 2 (Pass Labs X-250). Will just keep experimanting but any pointers welcome

Tung sol 5881 red/brown base mil spec
Sylvania black base 6SN7s
and the aforementioned in the phono/rectifier sections.

Happy listening,
Si
Ecclectique,

Thanks for the very "educational" explanation on why the chugging sound on the 6106 and not on the 5AR4. As a habit, I researched all the things you said and they are spot on frrom what you said as far as the difference between the two tubes are concern. For me, I will keep the 5AR4!

Anybody looking for a NOS (not even a minute used!) 6106 and a used pair as well? :)