Krell 700cx, and Tara cobalt A/C power cord.

My understanding is that the 10 gauge wire will handle the 30a. As for the outlet and cord, unless the amp is drawing 30a, which it doesn't, then no harm. Now if the amp decides to short out, there could be an issue. That's why what I'm doing is not up to code. With normal operation, there is no heat at the outlet or plug, so all is well.

I forgot to mention that outlets and cords are labeled according to the type of slot or plug, not necessarily what amperage they can handle. A true 30 amp outlet will have a different slot pattern and require a different plug on the cord. This is to stop someone from plugging in a lamp or something in a 30 amp outlet. 30 amp outlets generally will be wired for 220 volts and that would do all the things that the electrical people are telling you. But what really decides how much current they can handle is the effective gauge of wire. I would say that the heavier made Wattgate, and probable the one you are looking at, will handle more than 20 amps due to the heavier construction compared to a regular household outlet. Same with the power cord. If the effective gauge of the cord is 10 or more, then it should handle the current even into a dead short. The audiophile cords have heavier plugs and should be able to handle 30 amps for a little while, and they only need to be able to hang in there long enough to throw the breaker. Something that won't happen unless you have a dead short at the amp.
At least that's my understanding, and my outlet, plug, and amp are all cool and fine. No sign of melting.

@ Mrvordo, Hi, Man, I was really hopeing you got back to me, Thankyou for doing so, your theory is exactly what I already believed!, I also agree with your whole post!, I was believing thats exactly why the electrical stores were saying what they said, LOL!, they said the same thing you did!, Krell told me to use a 25 to 30 amp breaker, The electrical supply houses said It would not work, I knew it would!, They said it was not code to, and I would be taking a chance on damageing my amp, and a possible fire could happen, Krell did say the 700 cx would run smoother and cooler!, can you hear a difference in sound with the 30 amp breaker alone??, thats one question I would like to know, Thankyou, cheers to you!

Yes, the 30a breaker did improve the sound, and I've checked the outlet and cord plugs from time to time to make sure there is no heat build up. It wasn't a huge improvement, but was an easily heard improvement. So I think it is worthwhile. The electrical people will probably never tell anyone it would be ok for fear of some sort of liability if something did happen. And fire could be an issue, but I would think only under some kind of extreme conditions. It's just not to the lowest common denominator electrical codes.
I haven't noticed if my amp runs cooler, because I didn't know that could be a possibility, but now that I think of it, it could be a bit cooler than normal.

Hope this helps some.
Mike

Mrvordo, You talked me into to it!, I am going to run my Krell like you!, I mean, how different can our power grids be from each other?, Like I said, krell told me to do what you are doing!, A 25 to 30 amp breaker,man, If its a 5% improvement, Its worth it!, A breaker only cost $15.00 to $25.00!, This does Help!, How long have you been useing this set-up?, and you have not seen no problems?,, you are one of many people that told me that they were doing this on the audiogon, cheers.