I've been at this for quite some time and have experienced absolutely no problems splitting the load at the panel. First, I am a qualified electrician also and this is a basic element. Second, a dedicated line is just that. It can be run from either side of the panel, with the neutral and ground coming from the the neutral and ground points in the panel. Like I mentioned earlier, ground loops are not caused by this. They are caused by faulty design/contructed electronics with bad internal grounding systems, bad cables, etc. After I ran my dedicated lines, the noise floor dropped dramatically. No ground loops and absolute quiet. I also adhere to my philosophy of tying all low level electronics to the same power conditioner via a dedicated line and my two amps have their own dedicate line to the panel. and Yes! the amps are on different sides of the panel load. Dead quiet! and no ground loops and no cheater plugs. No way leakage can seep in the electronics. Each dedicated line has its own ground line and neutral back to the panel where they all terminate in a star like configuration. They all terminate at the same neutral and ground point at the panel. I can't explain it any better or clearer. But, it is not a point worth arguing. Each run of Romex has (three conductors in it. Hot, neutral and ground). So, each dedicated line has it's own three conductor Romex run from the panel to the outlet. This is how there is no leakage or sharing of neutral or ground. I think that is where the confusion arose. Some electricians will run lines and share neutrals. I don't.
Dedicated Power Lines
Been thinking about running dedicated Romex circuits from my circuit breaker box for my rig. No . . . I decline paying for specialty wire, Romex will do. The question is how many discreet lines and the amp capability of each line. I'm still trying to figure out how to do the installation in accordance with Code, without tearing my finished basement apart. For that, I'll consult a licensed electrician.
My rig consists of the following gear: (1) self powered sub that is rated at 1500 "Class D" watts; 4500 watts on a surge; (2) ARC tube CDP; (3) ARC tube line stage; (4) ARC tube power amp rated at 120 wpc - supposedly draws 700-800 watts when driven hard; (5) ARC tube phono pre; and VPI TT. I have a large screen plasma TV and a DVD player. I think that stuff can run off the house circuits.
Right now, everything I just listed is sucking juice off the same line. I gotta believe no good is coming from that set-up. Funny story -- one day my kid was playing Rosetta. I think it's a band that plays music, or at least that what my kid says. Tons of bass. When the band kicked into "low gear," first the basement lights dimmed, then the circuit breaker tripped.
Oh, my house is tied into the utility lines with a 100 amp service. If I change that out, that's the next project. But not right now. Other than Rosetta, no other power delivery problems noted.
Thanks
My rig consists of the following gear: (1) self powered sub that is rated at 1500 "Class D" watts; 4500 watts on a surge; (2) ARC tube CDP; (3) ARC tube line stage; (4) ARC tube power amp rated at 120 wpc - supposedly draws 700-800 watts when driven hard; (5) ARC tube phono pre; and VPI TT. I have a large screen plasma TV and a DVD player. I think that stuff can run off the house circuits.
Right now, everything I just listed is sucking juice off the same line. I gotta believe no good is coming from that set-up. Funny story -- one day my kid was playing Rosetta. I think it's a band that plays music, or at least that what my kid says. Tons of bass. When the band kicked into "low gear," first the basement lights dimmed, then the circuit breaker tripped.
Oh, my house is tied into the utility lines with a 100 amp service. If I change that out, that's the next project. But not right now. Other than Rosetta, no other power delivery problems noted.
Thanks
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- 46 posts total
- 46 posts total