I've just installed Dueland capacitors in my speakers. 40uF for the Mids and 5.6uF for the tweeters. You will not be disappointed. The purity, transparency and utter lack of any grain has transported my sound to the realms of ethereal. I have also changed the speaker wiring to Vampire but that preceded the capacitors and also made a difference. But the Dueland caps make a greater difference than a change of pre-amp. |
Volleyguy, Duelund will make up a capacitor to any value you require. Have to spoken to Frederik? The value of spending big bucks on the Duelunds comes with having a minimum number of caps, inductors, resistors in the path of the signal. I have my woofers wired directly to the speaker terminals (no caps or inductors), with 1 Duelund cap (40uF) before the Mid/Woofer and 1 Duelund cap (5.6uF) before the tweeter. When you add further caps and/or inductors, the purity and value of the Duelunds are diminished. |
They normally take 5-6 weeks if they are a standard value. Longer for special values. |
http://cgim.audiogon.com/i/vs/i/f/1220501771.jpgVolleyguy and Undertow, while you wait for your Duelunds, see the size of the single caps for my speakers on the above link. Most of the hand crafting for Duelund is done by outside contractors and suppliers so Duelund is at their mercy. Be patient, the wait is worth it. |
The large capacitor is 44uF whilst the smaller one is 5.6uF. The drive unit pictured is a 5 1/4" Scanspeak Mid/Woofer which the 44uF crosses to at 950Hz whilst the Tweeter crosses at 4750Hz. I could have bought the Cast capacitors instead of the VSF, but at the time there was no independent evidence of their benefits over the VSF except for Duelund's own advice. I just didn't want to risk it? |
My VSF caps instantly sounded pure, tranparent and very musical. They did not appear to 'break-in' very much after the first few days so I'm surprised by Storman's comments? |
Glad to hear your VSF Duelund caps are coming on song Volleyguy. Stick with them, I don't think you'll find anything so transparent and grainless.....and that's as much as you can ask of a cap? Click onto my system and see if you have any questions? |
Volleyguy, I had a Kebschull valve pre-amp immediately before the Halcro, with a Perraux 1850 power amp. A Rega Planar 3 with Hadcock GH228 Unipivot arm had been my analogue source since 1979. The speakers have been with me for 30 years albeit now with Scanspeak drivers (except for the woofers), Vampire internal wiring and Duelund capacitors. Here is a link to a review when I changed to the Raven AC3 http://forums.avguide.com/viewtopic.php?t=3585 |
I too am running total solid state and the Duelunds are a revelation. I don't understand how a capacitor is going to distinguish between an electrical signal generated by valves or transistors? It doesn't make sense to me and I'd sure like to see a scientific explanation if there is one? |
Volleyguy, you can do much better than a LP12....especially if it sounds like your CD player. Even my 30 year old Rega 3 would demolish any CD player! |
Well now I'm completely confused? Are you saying that the Linn is great with transistors but with tubes it's only the CD player that benefits? |
I agree that wire is important. I used Vampire internal speaker wire which was quite cost effective but who knows what the Duelund wire adds to the equation? |
Hi David, I bought the Vampire wire from John at the Cable Company. Not the most expensive as I recall but lots of copper! I have separate runs from the speaker terminals to:- The woofer The Mid Duelund Capacitor and then the Mid/Woofer The Tweeter Duelund Capacitor and then the Tweeter Why not try the Kimber you have on hand as a start or talk to John at the Cable Company. He is very knowledgeable and generally prefers a Litz-type wire but this requires a solder bath which is expensive. Good luck. |
Here's a Duelund 44 uF VSF cap next to a 51/2" Scanspeak Mid/woofer. DuelundNot only big but heavy! |