CleanerVinyl-Ultrasonic record cleaner

@skyhigh,

I bought my Vinyl Stack in Oct. direct for $325.00.

The other week I forgot to plug in my Vinyl Stack after turning my 40khz US cleaner on for a 30 minute cycle. I was worried but could hear no damage.

bdp24,

I don't think Harry has been testing Us cleaners for nothing. I’d bet on VPI to release their own line of US cleaners.

pbnaudio,

I followed Rushton’s article for equipment. (I’m a Audio Desk owner BTW.) One set of rollers for the AD cleaner costs half the price of my current US cleaner. I am still a big proponent of steaming and continue to do so currently as my first line of defense. My unit has a heating element, which is essential, IMO. (Steamimg/heat?)

Just replacing the units I own, using the AD fluid w/ distilled water (in both) was a revelation. My personal feeling is a larger tank area is needed for superior results. Mine is a 10L. I believe at least 1 inch of space between lps, as Rushton writes, enhances the cavitation process.(The more space the better). Sometimes I just go for it and put in one or two at a time. Does life get any better?

I’m glad you posted you’re just using distilled water and no additive with excellent results. It has been somewhat disproven on the DIY Audio forum that the Aquafina water MF recommends isn’t as pure as reported. This is probably not hard to research. This will hopefully inspire others to take the next step for a US cleaner. It really doesn’t need to be complicated.

whart,

I appreciate all of your comments/work. You don’t mention steaming anywhere in your thoughtful/thorough posts.

whart,

Hi whart,  The (vapor) = steam does make a wet record while steaming. A big positive is that the weight/force behind the steam, allows the initial crud to be washed away. This is assuming the user holds the lp over a sink as I do. (Some seem to use a flat (lazy susan) type of platform).

I'm currently using a DB steamer. The low cost of steamers on Amazon lends themselves to be virtual no-brainers as far as price goes as they are usually refunded if they don't meet one's expectations. So, I'd say just start experimenting.

I could make an argument for one that's more ergonomically correct, which is a plus. The main factor is a consistent steam pattern, consistent pressure along with a tank that holds at least 8 ounces of heated water.

I own the original Mapleshade. Very expensive. I've purchased 3 others on Amazon since for under the MS's original price.

@dgarretson ,

I think your post proves that there should still be a concern for the amount of force behind these US cleaners and their effect on vinyl records.

@pbnaudio,

Also, the rollers in the AD also take up much needed room that is better suited to allow for more cavitation action.

@dgarretson ,

You are correct. I don't recall your mentioning your heat/heat setting in your post above, which is why I did not address it.

@iopscrl,

The main reason I prefer my steam method is that among other important things, there is no "tank" that the initial debri falls into to possibly be redistributed again. (I’ve read that the Spin Clean fluid has an agent that allows for debri to fall to the bottom).

There are SO many positive aspects of steaming. They are very logical, which I find to be the most persuasive argument for most things.

My belief regarding the amount of ticking one experiences at the beginning/end of lps is related to the pressing process/quality.(IMO).

@pryso,

I use steaming solely for my initial cleaning of lps. I do not use it in any way as a replacement for US cleaning.

I’ve found the I achieve superior results with my pre-steam method, then a VPI rinse, then US, the a VPI rinse.

Using plain distilled water after I steam is great.

...let's not forget that at the more extreme two ends of a lp, there will be more tracking error.

"That guy in the restroom" most likely did not have a steamer/steam cleaning method and..."that guy is probably not an audiophile"?