Try using mechanical grounding devices under your speakers and components they work. They direct mechanical resonace and energy stored within the component to ground. Less boom and blurr.. Tom |
These have been around for 15 years or more and they work.
MB Quart had them as well as Audio Concepts
http://www.gattiweb.com/images/dynaudio/variovent_data.pdf
Tom |
Well there is a Paris Kentucky and I reckon the word reckon is used there many times a day as it is in Louisville, that other French name sake.
I'd have to ponder the variovent and how many and what size. That's probably more than just drilling a random hole I reckon. As far as material to place in the vent well that would be long hair sheep's wool.
Before you do any other mods you must mechanically ground your speakers. And after doing so the speakers and the grounding components will take a few days to settle in. There are several other enhanced grounding methods that could be applied to both the cabinet and the driver. All of which would improve performance and void the warranty. Tom |
The Horning website is pretty lean of info and pictures. There was a model reviewed on 6 Moons way back and it appears that they have made an attempt to couple the speaker to the floor. You do not want to damp any speaker you want to couple the speaker and provide a specific direction for the resonant energy to travel to ground. In this case the floor. If you impede the flow of energy from the cabinet it will sound different and most likely worse.
You may have an EF5 tornado in a box and your room. The energy is trapped and is trying to make it's way out and you will not be able to stop that energy that you paid thousands for. Why would you want to do that? The end result should be to make a funnel cloud of that 2 mile wide tornado and channel that energy to earth because that is what it is trying to do now. You do not want to stop that flow but to steer that energy full speed ahead to ground. Make use of all that energy make it work to your advantage make it work in one direction. I hope these concepts are of some help.
I myself design and build products that enhance the mechanical grounding of musical instruments that touch the floor. I am also a member of a company that designs, builds and sells similar technology for home and commercial audio products. Tom |
Your first step should be to couple the speaker and then wait a few days for the unit to find ground. Until you do this properly your retuning of the enclosure may lead down a path of continual frustrating results. There are ways to mechanically ground a ported speaker so that no internal damping material is needed but probably not now in your case without serious intrusion. Damping will reduce dynamics coupling will not. Tom |
As described this is the approach to take. Like I said
previous until this is done any amount of retuning will be
masked by the fact that the speaker is Not grounded. Same
thing happens with a acoustic instrument that touches the
floor. In a cello that has increased grounding potential
there is a great reduction of or even the elimination of a
wolf tone. Increase the grounding potential and the
instrument grows in stature and texture before your eyes. The
instrument becomes even more resonant and "alive". I came
here to present ideas and not a product. I prefer for people
to find out on their own. Now that the name was dropped I
have to say I work with Star Sound. Tom |
Everything mentioned are steps.The first step should be grounding the speaker. Until the grounding is done there will be no stable launch pad. As for the room itself geometric angles and shapes strategically placed will redirect low frequency and help with standing wave resonance. Tom |
Amuseb
If you listen near any boundary, floor, wall and even the ceiling you will hear more bass travel along those surfaces than travel down the more central areas of the room. The idea I suggest and one I use is to redirect the energy from those flat surfaces and scoop that energy into the central part of he room. Try to eliminate some or all 90 degree angles as mid bass punch and sound stage integration will be enhanced. Elimination of the 90's can look very cool as well.
I have some small portable angled units I put on the floor to reduce standing wave's that also add acoustic air to the performance. These can easily be added or subtracted when the family requests you to do so. Tom |
As Charles suggested and someone else..try a bass trap or easier and cheaper now to try would be a roll of fiberglass. Move it around near the niche. You could make your own trap when ready ..of wooden dowels, sheeps wool and that nasty fiberglass. Tom |
I think Duke's idea is a very good one and easy to undue if you don't like the results. The following is also easy to try. The replacement or reduction of 90 degree angles that I mentioned earlier there is one major angle you can try replacing. The niche or nook, that angle can be changed in a fairly easy experiment. If you had a solid wood panel like a door or you could take a door off its hinges temporarily you could place that barrier at the niche. The barrier wall of the niche is at a 90 degree and if you experiment by placing that panel at a 35 to 58 degree angle so it intersects the front edge and the side wall I think you will hear a big improvement. You can use this panel to steer the bass and listen for a change in angle and a change in how the room loads the bass. You have to use a solid not a rug or other porous material. If this idea works well you and the family need to decide what looks good and sounds good. I have performed these experiments before and have made permanent changes as a result. Tom |
Must be sleepy time in Paris.. |
Have you swapped speaker position left to right? The angle thing..needs to be larger and denser than the painting. Tom |
The Brawny Lads meet Depends...Who leaked these photos. Actually the TP probably sounds better than fiberglass and won't damage your lungs or scratch your anus. Tom |
The front left side is the culprit..I thought this was in the back of the room. The wall is deflecting and reinforcing the bass and the cabinet below and the space below that is acting as a storage drum. Wow your room looks great..but consider taking that nich/nook/ storage out and leave the radiator it won't interfere any way. Tom |
Amuseb
The cabinet under your cd's has vents which from this side
of the ocean makes me think the doors are metal and
something mechanical is behind them. If you could open the
doors or remove them that may help. If the cabinet needed to
stay the way it is now and it could be emptied.. filling
with stone or creek rock would help. You need to port the
cabinet so air will pass thru like an intake and exhaust of
a car. The stone will act as natural diffuser and not as a
damper like foam or fiberglass. You should also put stone
underneath the cabinet on the floor. You could cover these
areas that contain the stone with grill cloth. The cd
cabinet above... could have a full width door that fits
flush against your music collection. From the front, the
door would be hinged on the right side with the door handle
on the left side. When you are playing music you could open
the door so it's angle will steer the bass around and in
front of the wall with the 90 degree angle. This will bring
the bass pressure more to the center of the room and reduce
standing wave resonance in the area around the niche. Tom |
Some back round here.
http://www.google.com/patents?id=bbsBAAAAEBAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=4899387&hl=en&sa=X&ei=GyGRT_7aNYSo4gTV8s2eBA&ved=0CDIQ6AEwAA
And again here.
http://www.stereophile.com/roomtreatments/1289phantom/index.html
Happy Fathers Day. Tom |
The pillows you tried early on can you put those on the floor underneath the cd storage area? And if you have more, open the doors of that same cabinet and put something soft in there as well. And then leave the doors open for energy to pass thru not to wait in hiding. Tom |
