Lost sheep, Back to LP Turntable: buy guidance


I had an oppourtunity to aquire an old unused LP collection recently and decided to jump on it. They look like they sat unused and uncovered, for at least 30+ years. A bit smelly, and moldy jackets hiding pristine LPs. I bought them, even though I had no ability to play them.
So far I have aquired a wonderful Audio Research PH1 phono, and am using a borrowed Dual 502. I am transfixed and my enjoyment of the music on these LPs is more than I had hoped for.
I am currently using a pair of Maggie MG-IIB and a Forte 4a amp, Kimber silver interconnects, an Adcom 7?? pre and the Audio Research PH1... (until I can retip my AQ midnight speaker cables, I am using ten guage twisted pair automotive wire and super cheap bananas EEEK!)
What TT??
I am leaning to a used Rega Planar 3 with the 300 series tonearm. The newer Music Hall MMF-5 and 7 also look appealing. (however I am a big believer in using stuff where the manufacturer has been around, and will be around) So I wonder if the Music Hall is an overnight balloon?? or not?
With my system, should I wait and go better? Like a VPI Aries Scout?
(I don't need cable advice, I got cables down)
And don't even start in on cartridges! But I would have a preference for a (slight) lower midrange, upper bass bloom in a cartridge, I mean just a tiny hint vs a lean sounding cartridge. And a clear top end, with no exaggeration, all for $200 to $300 (cartridge, new or used) Cartridges are a giant vacuum in my Audiophillia type knowledge...
You suggestions, praise (for coming in out from the 'dark side' ...from ugh, CDs... ),comments, warnings, dark forbodings, appreciated.
elizabeth

Showing 2 responses by sean

Congratulations Elizabeth. Glad to see that you are enjoying your new found "bundles of joy" : )

As a basic suggestion, i would look for a phono system that uses a medium mass arm. This allows you the widest range of cartridges to choose from. As to specific arms, i would look for an arm that allows easy VTA adjustments. Having to "shim" a cartridge is a real "P.I.T.A.", even if you only have to do it once in a great while. Some arms do not have VTA but can have this feature added by purchasing aftermarket parts / services. Personally, i would buy one that was designed "right" from the factory rather than pay for a flawed item and then have to pay again to correct such an oversight later on.

I'll pass on suggesting a new table as i'm not real familiar with a lot of the newer tables in the Rega / Music Hall category. If looking for a used model that is quite affordable, you might consider an AR "The Turntable", ES-1, EB-101 or ETL-1. These are all basically the same table with slight production variations. Once again though, they all had low mass arms on them, so you would have to pay attention to what cartridge you mated with them or change the arm to something a little more versatile ( medium mass ).

Other than that, i would HIGHLY suggest looking into a Denon 103 phono cartridge. It offers phenomenal bang for the buck. Only problem is that it is a low output MC, but your ARC phono pre should handle that no problem. As far as loading goes on this cartridge, you should try to get the resistance down to about 15 - 30 ohms ( no higher than 100 ohms at most ) and experiment with about 300 - 1500 pF's of total capacitance.

When loading in this manner, the cartridge has a slightly "warm" quality. If using a more conventional loading ( higher resistance and lower capacitance ), the cartridge will provide a rising response on the top that would be just the opposite of what you are looking for. Obviously, one can somewhat tailor the sound of such a cartridge to their system or personal liking by fiddling with the loading that the cartridge sees. Bare in mind that this cartridge will NOT work well in a low mass arm such as the Dual that you are using or the AR mentioned above.

If you want a cartridge that will work in just about any arm that you mount it in, there's the old reliable Shure V15 series. While i don't think that it is outstanding in any given category, it "works" with just about anything that you throw at it and does so reliably. I can think of quite a few cartridges that i would rather own, but none that are nearly as versatile or easy to work with. As such, it has remained a reviewers favorite even though it is not a top performer. Personally, i think that the Stanton 881 is a FAR superior high output cartridge in every aspect, but it really only works well in a very low mass arm. Unlike the Denon mentioned above, it would be a great match with something like the Dual or AR arm.

Drop me an email if you like and i'll see what i can do about forwarding some good yet easy to understand info on TT set-up. Good luck and keep us posted : ) Sean
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Psychicanimal: What does one do about the motor vibrations that are directly transmitted to the platter, record, stylus, tonearm and signal with a direct drive unit ? You better have one helluva accurate speed control system that doesn't require ANY correction or the "cogging" of the motor will surely contribute to a higher noise floor with lower resolution. After all, the stylus picks up the vibrations from the grooves while the grooves rest on the platter that is directly connected to the motor. It's not hard to see how isolating the motor from the platter via a "flimsy" belt ( or even string, which reduces the coupling even further ) could be beneficial. It's also not hard to see how mounting the platter and arm on a separate plane or sub-chassis from the motor might be beneficial. As such, making a "good" direct drive is a LOT harder than making a "good" belt drive. It is also more costly since it requires greater design and production effort.

As far as the accuracy of speed goes, do you think that any manufacturer(s) has a strong-hold on motor design or speed controls ? It does not take a rocket scientist to build something like this nowadays. It takes a lot more skill to isolate the platter / tonearm / cartridge from outside influence without creating a completely different set of problems doing so.

I'm NOT knocking the 1200 or other similar tables. I do agree that a lot of the "cheaper" new tables that are raved about are under-designed "hype" and the 1200 "might" actually be a better buy. In terms of isolation, the 1200 is probably better than the "coveted" Linn LP-12.

Having said that, either of the types of tables being discussed are a compromise due to being built to a price point and should be considered as such. No matter what you do though, you can't compare a Chevy to a Porsche / Ferrari. This is true no matter how hard you try to turn that Chevy into a Porsche / Ferrari. Then again, the Chevy is WAY better than the Yugo, which doesn't even deserve comparison to the Chevy to begin with. Sean
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