BTW,
Totem Arro and OHM MWT are perhaps my two favorite floor standers of their size and price range that I know of. I could live with either but in the end I would probably live more contently with the MWTs because I am an omni kind of guy in general. Room acoustics and placement options will be a big factor in choosing between these two as both do everything they do extremely well. Is MWT as detailed as Arro? Would have to spend more time with both to know for sure.
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Map, like you, I too would prefer the Omni approach, giving nod to the MWT over the Arro, however it is certainly horses for courses.
I have not lived with Arro either, the MWT I have, so hard to say. As to which one is most detailed, that too a tough call, as presentation and perspective kind of differs a bit. One may perceive the Arro as the more detailed as the sound is thrown directly at you, the MWT more diffuse-although I really somewhat hate that term, as it always seems to be applied to all omnis in general, one in which I feel is wrong a lot of the time....
Either one though is a nice speaker in its own right.
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Ironically, if you perouse the start of this thread my recollection is the OP Rebbi discussed his Totem Arros prior to trying OHMs. |
Yes it was. Funny. Full circle after how many years? Hah.
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Here's an update on the Ohm 1000s. I've had them for over a month now and have them settled in the right spot and continue to really enjoy them.
The stridency issue originally mentioned turned out to be the rear panel of the flat screen TV that is in between the two speakers. Apparently, the extra acoustic energy from the Ohm's quasi-omni radiation excited the TV panel in a way the GE Triton 7s didn't.
The problem was solved by ordering Siless sound proofing panels from Amazon. These are relatively thin but dense material with an adhesive back that are used for sound deadening in cars. It is very easy to cut to any shape desired. For about $20 you get two 15" X 24" sheets, so it is not very expensive. (I've only used about 10% of the material on the TV so far.)
I cut some Siless panels and stuck them to the back of the TV, being careful to not cover any ventilation holes. Even though I only added deadening to about 20% of the back of the TV, it substantially reduced the rattle of the back panel and the strident sibilance is almost completely gone.
That's one thing about the Ohms -- they do interact with the room on a substantially different level than conventional front radiator speakers, so be prepared to approach things in a different way.
And, as I believe I noted before, these speakers are staying put. Zero need to take Ohm up on their 120 day return offer.
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@mlsstl Please tell me your TV is on a stand a ways in front of the wall behind it. If it is wall mounted, I will not be able to have any peace of mind until I try what you did, even though I don't have any stridency issues. Thanks for the update, dammit! 😉
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@ bondmanp -- The TV sits on a wood TV cabinet. While the cabinet itself is against the rear wall, the back of the TV is about 6" or 7" from the wall. (The internet router is located behind the TV.) BTW, the Siless panels are only about 1/16" thick when on a surface. I suspect they could still be used on a wall-mounted TV. And, within the realm of "audiophile" accessories, the $20 I spent for the Siless panels makes the a downright steal |
@mlsstl - Thanks. My TV is a heavy plasma mounted to the wall. I don't think there is much room for sound to bounce around behind it. |
@mapman Yes, that's right. I did own Totem Arro's when I first refreshed my rig. I remember liking them "enough" but ultimately sold them for the MWT's. |
Ok, I just had to post this... I am finally able to digitize vinyl at 96/24 using my Sweetvinyl SugarCube SC-2 and play it back from my server. I am listening to Sting's LP "Nothing Like the Sun" that I digitized from a pretty clean double LP, and I am having a "Holy-Mother-of-Crap" moment, where everything is just about perfect. Clean, effortless, extended, all the buzz-words. Wow! The highs, especially, are so much cleaner and smoother than with my Red Book digitized files using my Marantz CD recorder. Considering my system costs a fraction of what many people here have spent on their rigs, it is really something! I love music, and I love this hobby! John Strohbeen, if you're reading this, I will say it again... your speakers should be fed with really good electronics and accessories. Nothing short of amazing!!
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Hi Ohm followers, I have been using the Micro talls and micro center in my home theater set up for many years. My late brother willed me his Ohm 4xo's updated from the original F's from the 1970's. When I fired up the 4xo one of the drivers had an issue no top end. I contacted Ohm and spoke to Evan their and I could have the driver repaired or update them to the 3000's. My room is 16'X 24'. My question is if I update the mains should I also update the center Micro center to a larger model. The center sets on a cabinet just below the screen. Now I am mature in my years so my hearing is not of a 20 yr. old but there is more to music and movies then the highs. System powered by a Harmon Kardon AVR 7200 (heater). All responses thanked in advance..
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@jim_hip - IME, the main criteria Ohm uses to determine which center channel you need is distance from that center channel speaker. In my case, I was told by John Strobeen that since I sit about 10 feet from the center, that the smallest model would be just fine. I followed that advice and have been pleased with my center for around 8 years. As for the repair vs. upgrade question, you should price both options out. The 3000 cans will have slightly better performance all around, and will be more durable. But the difference in sound quality is not huge. I would try to speak with John Strobeen himself to discuss. He won't steer you wrong.
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@bondmanp. Talked to John today decided to go the upgrade route to the 3000. My room size and going from the micro tall's to 3000 is enough improvement to warrant the cost. I will keep the micro center and will see how it fits together with the new drivers for movies.
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@bondmanp no doubt that the vinyl rip sounds better. It's a fact that (well in most cases) that LPs typically have better dynamic range than their CD counterparts (although the CD format DOES have much better dynamic range inherently, but it's not taken advantage of). I plan on digitizing my vinyl collection after I upgrade my cart and phono preamp and then getting a good ADC. Won't be cheap.
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@bstatmeister... For digitizing vinyl, I strongly recommend that you try the Sugarcube SC-2 by Sweetvinyl. I am using it with excellent results. |
@bondmanp that Sugarcube looks very nice, however, at 3k it's too rich for my blood! I'll probably look for an ADC in the 200-500 dollar range and just make sure to clean my records real good in a Record doctor V. The Record Doctor is simply amazing if you haven't tried it. |
@bstatmeister... Yes the SC-2 is spendy. I got mine via Indiegogo as a beta unit for half the price. I use the KAB-1 record cleaner, similar to the RD V except you connect your own cannisters vacuum. When I bought it, about 14 years ago, there was nothing as cost effective as the Record Doctor V. If I were buying a record cleaner today, I would absolutely get the Record Doctor V. Good luck. |
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