Vintage DD turntables. Are we living dangerously?

Lewm, I'm looking forward to your impressions and possibly a few pics of the completed unit.

Does anyone here have an opinion about these folks?
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/MN6042_564875243.html?spm=a2700.7743248.51.8.yeMMGl

http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/original-new-IC-MN6042_525211228.html?spm=a2700.7743248.51.1.h...

Wouldn't it be simple to make your own pigskin mat?

Lewm, I don't seem to have any problems with my SP-10MK III. I just thought it would be nice to have spares of the 6042 chip since so many other units use them too. I have a friend who has many SP-10MK II units that need work also.

Pigskin is easy to obtain.
http://www.tandyleather.com/en/category/suedessplits

The SP-20 does not have an outboard PS nor does it have quartz lock.

I was incorrect about the SP-20 not having quartz lock. The motor is also brushless.

http://audio-heritage.jp/TECHNICS/etc/sp-20.html
Model Direct drive turntable Turntable 32cm aluminum die-cast, 2.5kg Inertial mass 345kg · cm 2 motor
Quartz phase locked control
Brushless DC motor Drive system Direct Drive
Rotational speed 33 1 / 3,45rpm
Wow and flutter 0.025% (JIS C5521)
WRMS SN ratio 60dB (IEC17B) 73dB (DIN45539B)
Starting torque 1.5kg · cm
Start-up time 0.7 seconds (90 °) within (33 1 / 3rpm) brake
Pure electronic brake Load fluctuation Within 1.5kg · cm 0%
Rotation speed deviation Within ± 0.002%
Power supply AC100V, 50Hz / 60Hz power consumption 4W
External dimensions Width 368.5 × height 99 × depth 368.5mm weight 8.0kg

I am a direct drive enthusiast and have become interested in JVC after reading this article:http://www.soundhifi.com/images/DC%20Technics%20SL-1200.pdf

Do any of you have any experience with the Victor TT-801? It appears to be even better in some regards to the 101. http://www.thevintageknob.org/jvc-TT-801.html

I am the proud owner of a Technics SP-10 MKIII, an SLP 1200 MKII, a Teac TN-400 and a Micro Seiki FVG RX-1500. I also have an Empire 698 which isn't working at the moment.

I agree with the worry about the rubber which my Micro has. Although I never use the Micro, I intend to someday.

The 801 appears to have even more IC's then the 101.

If anyone is interested:http://www.ebay.com/itm/140827896694?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

It appears the 801 is actually slightly more complex than the 101. I believe I would just as much prefer the 101 because it is more easily serviceable I suppose. As far as the rubber goes, my Micro Seiki has a rubber platter ring and it is as good as new but if it became damaged it would be expensive to replace. You could easily get by without using it of course and simply put a mat over it.
http://www.vinylengine.com/turntable_forum/gallery/image_page.php?album_id=106&image_id=16222

http://www.thevintageknob.org/jvc-TT-801.html

The vacuum platter and pump was an option with the 801. With the Micro the pump is necessary because of the air bearing but you obviously don't have to use the vacuum.

I am only going by what vintage knob has to say. I can't swear to how truthful their statement is. It's obviously an opinion but justified by the evidence presented.
http://www.thevintageknob.org/jvc-TT-801.html

"The TT-801 is an extra-rare LP drive and the culmination of the well received but earlier TT-101.
The engineering and bi-directional dual FG servo are the same, even if implemented more discreetely as 1981 allowed more ICs and chips - which isn't necessarily better for long-term servicing."

As far as the vacuum system:
"The Turbo Disc Stabilizer System isn't that different from the one used by Luxman/Micro, but the latter allowed to put the main bearing much closer to the spindle.
The complete system consisted of the TT-801 drive, the TS-1 air pump (optional) and CL-P10 base, with blank or pre-drilled CL-P1D, CL-P2D and CL-P3D armboards."
However, the TS-1 could be adapted to the QL-A95 integrated turntable.
Since the Victor TT-801 was never exported, it never was named JVC TT-801 but only Victor TT-801.

The 801 looks different than the 101 also.

Maybe this is the one for you Halcro?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281912466400?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

That's great news Totem.

Check out these slate plinths for the SP-10.
http://oswaldsmillaudio.com/tourmaline

I shouldn't have done it but I just bought one of these.
http://www.thevintageknob.org/jvc-QL-F6.html

I'll let you know. It certainly looks like a good one.

Halcro.
Does the chip have a manufacturers name on it? I also noticed there were some chips with "B" as a suffix. Are they different?

Doesn't the SL1500MK2 use the same motor and possibly chip as the SL1200MK2?
http://www.thevintageknob.org/technics-SL-1500MK2.html

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Technics-SL-1200-MK2-main-board-motor-PCB-29-/252255088775?hash=item3abb9330...~

You can see the service manual for the SL1500MK2 here  showing the chips that are used:

http://www.vinylengine.com/library/technics/sl-1500.shtml

I found it here in the SL1300MK2 service manual MN6042:

http://www.vinylengine.com/library/technics/sl-1300.shtml

As a MK3 owner myself it was interesting for me too. There's still many IC's inside the MK3 though. Aren't they just as important?

I just bought a JVC QL-F6 that is supposed to be in good working order. Hope so.
http://www.thevintageknob.org/jvc-QL-F6.html

I still have question about the other chips inside the MK3. Are they easily found, not as important or just don't ever die?

I suggest laminating the lead to a thin sheet of aluminum using contact cement or epoxy. Use a roller to flatten them. I don't think it's a good idea to have exposed lead that can come in contact with the platter or your skin.

Fleib,
Contact cement is not thick or uneven if sprayed. It's what speaker companies use for veneer. I've used it to laminate lead to armboards. It works well. As for the veneering of the lead, you could use something other than aluminum if desired. I would use copper myself. Or you could just coat both sides with leather using contact cement or the like.
I've worked with lead a good bit and once built huge subs for a customer/friend that had lead between a layer of plywood and MDF. They were rather heavy as I recall.

That's great about the MK-III Kmccarty. How much do the chips sell for?

If anyone is interested there's a TT-81 on eBay as well as an Exclusive motor unit.

That's a pretty good deal if you can't build your own plinth and it has a good arm. Here's a good looking one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141883895491?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I'm happy to say my recently purchased JVC QL-F6 works and sounds great. It's not the most beautiful turntable I've seen but could look nice in a custom cabinet.
http://www.thevintageknob.org/jvc-QL-F6.html

I have an AT155 and need a stylus for it. Is this the best for it now since the original is unavailable?
http://www.lpgear.com/product/ATSAT0155LC.html

The A75 is beautiful.

Hiho or anyone else that knows, are there any issues with the F6 I should be acquainted with?

Thanks Hiho.

Sounds like my story halcro. I never liked that Planer 3. I finally got rid of it years ago along with that bouncy Linn Sondek.

I was under the impression the P3 had a lifetime warranty if you could get it to Japan.  Am i wrong? I would love to have one.

My thoughts were if the P3'a are still under warranty there must still be parts for them. But I could be wrong about that.
Japan does have a great postal system though. I once ordered a guitar from Japan and got it in three days in great shape.

Perhaps there was something wrong already with the TT-101 and the power outage finished it off? This could account for the difference in sound.

Perhaps you would be better off with one of these halcro?
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/493608538/love-the-worlds-first-intelligent-turntable

I bought a 731Q with intentions of doing so but never have. I have seen some online though. I believe the 701 to be the best one.

Here's a TT made using a 701 motor.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GOidsA9smZE

Don't take it offline. We are interested.

audiolabyrinth, Kenwood also made this beauty.
http://www.thevintageknob.org/kenwood-KP-1100.html

http://www.hifido.co.jp/KWkenwood/G2/P0/A10/E/0-50/S0/C17-09833-38016-00/

Denon DN 308: http://www.hifido.co.jp/KWdenon+dn-308/G1/E/30-10/C10-49724-53028-00/

 http://www.hifido.co.jp/KWdenon+dn-308/G1/E/10-10/C16-06226-00418-00/

Those are beautiful 308s. Makes me want one Peter. How many did you procure?
Thanks for sharing.

Robt.

Thanks Peter but I can't afford one. Besides I have an SP-10 MKIII that I really love as well as about five more models I am in the process of rebuilding myself.

Robt.

Is the IC used in any other JVC or other brand turntable? Because there's usually lower priced models available cheap.

The QL-F6 has the same bi-directional servo as the 101. I have one of these and it’s very good. They are cheap on eBay.

" Although far less remembered than the QL-10 or QL-7, the QL-F6 has about the same motor structure as the former, the same specs as the latter - and, in spots, even surpasses both !
Bi-directional servo as in the QL-10 (and the TT-101 and TT-801), Coreless DC servomotor (as in the QL-10), continuously variable Q oil-damping for both horizontal and vertical planes, diecast aluminium cabinet, non-resonant "High-Density Pararesonance"
Bi-directional servo works with a push-pull amplifier in the drive circuit : two currents are generated in each motor drive coil, one pushing and one pulling the rotor.
The result is less overshoot in speed correction, 50% increase in efficiency, 40% increase in torque and the remedy to coreless' motors lower efficiency and lower torque capability... See the JVC TT-101 page for more details."

http://www.thevintageknob.org/jvc-QL-F6.html

Technics claimed the SP-10MKIII would maintain speed with up to one thousand tonearms tracking at 2 grams each.

Even if Technics measurements were off 50% it would still be impressive. Have you ever tried to slow the platter of a MK3 with your hand? It's quite difficult.