Voltage conversion from 220V to 110V.

You may want to check with the manufacture of the Amps to see if they are dual voltage via way of a switch or internal tap change.If they are not,ask them about using 220\230 volt USA power.If the Amps are 220v 50 cycle only, I would ask if 60 cycle is ok.You may have more heat because of the difference in frequency.Make sure the power transformer winding insulation is capable of the extra heat if any.cover your bases before you buy.

The higher the frequency the more heat will be generated. the current is moving faster back and forth, 60 times a second, 60 cycle, than 50 times a second, 50 cycle.The current is alternating.I don`t know for sure if a 10 cycle per second would generate that much more heat.That is why I said I would ask the manufacture.Is the Amp rated 50\60 cycle, hertz.I would say yes if it is designed for both 120\220v 50\60 hertz. As far as RMS,the average current flow, I`m not sure if it would be different between 50 or 60 cycle. Good point on the power supply capacitance.I wonder if it would make a difference if you took a 60 hertz only piece of equiptment to a country with 220v 50 hertz, using a 220v to 120v converter,could you hear a difference?Though is`t most equiptment made in the US 50\60 hertz?

Hepl;did you just run a regular 220v power line ,to a recept and plug your Linn dirrectly in to the rececpt?When using 120v as you know you have 1 hot leg, the neutral, the grounded conductor,and equiptment ground, from your electrical panel.With the 220v source the 2hots and the equipt. grd. In countries with 220v power I wonder if they bond one leg to ground as we do in the US? Or does it float?can you see where I am going?The way you are feeding the Linn with the 220v does the power suppy see it as floating?With the 120v hook up does`nt polarity come into play for the power suppy ?

Eldartford; yes I know the neutral is bonded to ground at the service panel only, and not at the equiptment.That could prove to be quite dangerous if it was connectd to the chasis.Just think what would happen if the plug on the equipt.was pluggeg into an old non polarized recept.with a ground cheater,and the polarity was reversed. You would have, ONE HOT AMP.You missed the point I was trying to make.

Hector, thanks for your answer.Got to ask!What is the neutral for? Or did you mean equiptment ground.It gets confusing some times. The neutral,white wire, is the grounded conductor.The green ,or bare,the equiptment grounding conductor. Jim

Eldartford;you are showing your age. I too remember that old stuff.The tube filaments were in serries with each other.One burned out, they all went out.Like the old Christmas tree string lights. How many hours did we spend trying to find the burned out bulb\bulbs.I can remember taking the tubes out and going to the neighborhood Drugstore to check them.Dont see that anymore.I was just a kid back then.Did you know back in the early days of [Nob and Tube] building wirring, the neutral was switched not the hot for the lights.I agree with you that older transformers the primary leads were of one color.But for many years now they have been two different colors.Please let me say here, I am not a electronic engineer,or even a tech.I am an electrician by trade.All I can go by is what I pick by reading books and mags.Jim

Good one,Subaruguru.I was about 12 or 13 years old.Some of those plate voltages were over 350VDC.I leaned about those electrolytic capacitors first hand.It`s unpluged everthings dead right!Jim

Eldartford;I can`t stop laughing.I know I should`nt, but I can`t help it.It`s just that I can see him doing it, in my mind.I can only imagine the look on his face afterwords.

Eldartford, I posted this question on "AA'. I thought it might be of some interest.

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