What amps should I audition?


I’m thinking ahead (crazy I know)

I want to purchase a high end amplifier next year, maybe an integrated or just a power amp.

I would be looking to spend around 15k max on an integrated, and 8-10k on a power amp separate (funds to acquire a preamp will be got at a later date next year)

What brands and what model from each brand should I try to get a home audition for? 

I should note I would probably be buying new as I can’t imagine I will be able to get a home audition with used gear. I’m open to buying used, but I’d have to get an audition in a system like mine, or actually in my system... I don’t really want to buy anything without auditioning first. On a related note, what is the easiest or best way to get a dealer relationship started, one where he would let me home audition? I’m even willing to pay 100% deposit if it means I can return it no questions ask after the audition period, but the dealers I’ve asked to do this with so far have refused. I always see people on this forum saying they manage to do that. I’m a bit at a loss how they manage to pull that off.

Anyway some more ideas: Bryston amps and Nagra Classic pre? This was the only setup I’ve heard on my speakers and it was quite magical. I really like the Nagra, and the Bryston combo. Used, it could be got within my budget. New.. not so much. I could swap out the Brystons with the matching Nagra amp, maybe. Or even just go for the Nagra Classic Integrated. All within my budget (if used) and with my speakers 96db sensitivity I should be good to go with the Nagra 100wpc rating.

other ideas: mcintosh mc462 or mc275 mk vi. 
Pass Labs XA30.8 or XA60.8 or XA100.8
Acxuphase e-470
Luxman 509X 

Actually that’s all I’ve really come up with so far. I am open to hearing any thoughts, concerns or ideas you may have. I do believe all the above mentioned amps will better my Kinki EX-M1. 

Cabling will be upgraded to Audience before any of this by the way. 
d2girls

Showing 10 responses by geek101

I am in a similar process as the OP but unfortunately my budget process is to be literally as cheap as possible.  My speakers will be Legacy Aeris which has the bass section powered by Class D amps. 

I have gathered one integrated Class A SET amp Line Magnetic LM 508ia 2x48 Watts @ 16 to 4 Ohm. 

I am at this point considering a Hypex NC500 based Class D from Nord / Apollon etc which is rated at 700 Watts @ 4 Ohm and 550 Watts @ 2 Ohm.

One Class A/B amp like Coda 5.5/12.5/Ts with high Class A bias up-to 40 watts and very economical or Audio-gd Master 2H mono blocks which are over done for the price and great measurements (and I have used Kingwa's products before so not worried about it).

And the final amp but in a class of its own with respect to measurements is Benchmark AHB2. If required 2 Benchmark amps each in bridged mode, but going to start with one. Since it seems to be able to be at lowest distortion from first 0.1 Watt till clipping.

So Class A vs Class A/B (high/low bias) vs Class D (Hypex NC500) vs Class Benchmark.

I would like to know how the OP would like to audition?.

I am thinking of input from other folks i.e crowd sourcing the listening impressions. I can get a Binaural l microphone and select various sound clips and present them in a way no one will know (including me) when using the interface to pick X vs Y, i.e which clip sounds good i.e which amp is better. I am hoping to get a large enough diverse sample, which I think will help answer many outstanding questions regarding amps. 

At this point my bias is that at normal listening levels there should not be any differences heard. Just stating my bias but I am open to what ever the results say.

It seems to be most of the listening session will use between 0.1 Watts to 32 Watts. So most amplifiers, for my speakers and listening distance, expect LM 508ia rest of them have a lot of headroom. So I am expecting more distortion from LM 508ia when compared to others.


@tomic601 I do not think a single microphone will cut it. A true binaural recording of good quality can only capture the room, speakers and the rest of the chain in a good dynamic range. And the listener has to use headphones (good ones I presume) to make out any differences. 

Thanks for your vote regarding the Benchmark. I will post my impressions shortly once I get it delivered.

 
@cakyol that would mean buying Class A solid state amp used can be a problem?.
It bogles my mind when amps reach $20k putting out mere 300 watts @ 4 Ohm or sometimes even less. I am beginning to wonder if high end amps are like the magical cables that cost multiple $k.

What is the engineering innovation does a $20k amp demand?. If amp can put out 10,000 watts for $20k I understand, someone wants to go deaf after spending lot of money, or likes melting the speaker drivers for fun. Even $10k for an amp putting out less than 300 watts at @ 4 Ohm just does not make sense to me.

I guess I will never know unless I win a lottery.
@elizabeth very interesting what Bryston Cubed specs(high level, page 4) indicate. I wish there are proper measurements published by someone for one of the cubed series amp. 
@elizabeth something I noticed is that designers like Parasound, Coda and few others shield the toroidal transformer but Bryston continues not to. Any implications of that?.
I found some measurements for Bryston 14B3 :). They are quite amazing for a Class AB amp putting out 900 Watts @ 4ohm: http://hifilounge.co.uk/image/attachments/Bryston/Bryston%2014B%20Cubed%20Review.pdf

Not sure what to make of this. Anyone care to point out something that can do better for same $ and watts?.
@elizabeth  thanks for the response. Since I could not find any measurements I thought you might have insight and you did.

now that I see the review with measurements this is a non issue for me at least thanks

I don’t have a lot of experience but to me buying an amp before speaker introduces the risk of incompatibility. 

Also amps performance is not correlated with price is my observation.

Being objective about speaker requirement and objective about amp capability and price will help.

I think buying a speaker with active cross over and which is fully active powered i.e an amp inside for each driver is best way forward. If I ever buy my next speaker I would go this way.