ruined a phillips screw, any inspired solution?


Not strictly audio but related and a real mess. I wanted to open up the cabinet of a cdp to change a tube inside which involved removing 6 small phillips screws with a recessed head,... and of course, there is always one that pretends to be sword Excalibur. Sadly, after I had attacked it with every imaginable screwdriver, I noticed that I had literally milled out the head. So I now have an unbudgeable screw with a perfectly round cavity on the head sitting on a rather sensitive piece of gear (the plate I have to remove holds most of the electronic circuitry, the cd drive and the tube, go figure). Anyone faced a similar conundrum and solved it?
Thanks for not laughing 8^(
karelfd
Here's a trick for the future & for the benefit of others as well; I learned this from an old pro machinist. If a stubborn screw won't loosen, then before you badly muck up the head try to TIGHTEN it just a bit first, then loosen. This has saved me I dunno how many times but doesn't always work of course.

Also there's a liquid called "Screwdriver Helper" which is applied to the head; it increases the gription somehow & this stuff actually does work. I got a tube from a boating supply house; I think it was Overtons but might have been West Marine?

The Dremel tool approach has worked for me too, as have the screw extractors. Sometimes you can grab onto the head with a pair of Vice Grip pliers (usually the mini model). Drilling through the head has also worked successfully. However drilling can be a very long process for stainless steel hardware.

To prevent a screw from seizing, you can apply a dab of LockTite to the threads before installing it. Use the blue or sometimes the green; never the red. Also there's an AntiSeize product made of copper powdered paste (from Overtons) which works great. Also you can sometimes dip the threads in a liquid gasket sealer. Sil Glyde paste from NAPA auto parts also makes a good thread coater for future easier removal. Your approach will vary according to the application of course.
Philips screws suck, especially soft zinc and stainless. . Replace the first chance you get with allen screws or Robertson (star) and you will never have a problem. Ever see a philips screw on a good tonearm or other sensitive piece of equipment?
Some good advice,some bad.I was a Harley wrench for a couple years till a shoulder went down.Lots of oils,greases etc. which is fine.Stay away from anti-seize[messy] and lock-tite[pointless].Petro-chemicals[WD-40,sewing machine oil,Vaseline etc.] are OK,but best to stick to teflon base[Tri-flow,Bel-ray etc.].They dont smell as bad and are superior for lube.Pam cooking spray[veg base] is an option as is Crisco as last resorts.When tightening screws use 2 fingers unless your units have a top-end of say 75MPH and vibrate alot in their racks.Never turn a screw or bolt without pushing in at the same time.Too much info for this thread but be gentle when tightening and use some form of lube would eliminate 95% of stripped heads on audio equipment.YMMV,Bob
I stripped badly a Phillips screw on my preamp several months ago. Then I tried a screw extractor. Now it is as you describe. I haven't had the courage to go back to it since then. (I don't want to subject the innards to the vibrations of a drill.) So, you're not alone (if anything, I messed up mine even worse!