Eminent Technology ET-2 Tonearm Owners



Where are you? What mods have you done ?

I have been using these ET2's for over 9 years now.
I am still figuring them out and learning from them. They can be modified in so many ways. Bruce Thigpen laid down the GENIUS behind this tonearm over 20 years ago. Some of you have owned them for over 20 years !

Tell us your secrets.

New owners – what questions do you have ?

We may even be able to coax Bruce to post here. :^)

There are so many modifications that can be done.

Dressing of the wire with this arm is critical to get optimum sonics along with proper counterweight setup.

Let me start it off.

Please tell us what you have found to be the best wire for the ET-2 tonearm ? One that is pliable/doesn’t crink or curl. Whats the best way of dressing it so it doesn’t impact the arm. Through the spindle - Over the manifold - Below manifold ? What have you come up with ?
128x128ct0517
@Slaw

I kept wondering why he didn't question Ct0517's ongoing use of 19 psi?

My 2.5 HP manifold is a custom build by Bruce designed for 19 psi. I run it at the psi it was designed for.

Here is a real life example of a situation that may help understand what I said a few posts earlier in the Air Bearing Sticky Post.

A long time ET2'er is running a base ET2 which has had a recent cleaning maintenance done. He runs it with the stock original Takatsuki pump that still produces the 3.0 needed for the base ET2 to work, but not the 3.6 PSI the pump produced when it was new. It sounds good to him. On a whim he buys a little Medo medical pump on ebay. He notices that it makes 12 psi at the pumps output, but after travelling down 15-20 feet of air line he discovers the PSI drops to 7 psi at the gauge mounted near the tonearm. The music sounds better to him so even though this Medo makes enough noise to have to isolate in another room, he keeps it in place as it is worth it to him. He has it hooked up to 20 feet of hose and in another room. He's happy. He puts the stock pump away as a backup.

Now the maker of the our tonearms teaches us that if we improve the air supply the sonics will improve; but that over PSI'ing the arm can't hurt it physically as it is a robust design.

Based on the above example and info, did the sound get better with the little Medo pump because;

1) The PSI at the ET2 was increased to 7 psi from 3.5 stock pump.

or

2) The overall air quality delivered by the little Medo pump was better.

What do you think .... 1 or 2 above ?

btw
If anyone here is running a system with 10-15 feet of air line, and you have a quality pump that can still produce the PSI you need with a 60 - 100 feet of air line. Buy the air line as it is cheap - coil it up like a car's coil spring to save space. You will improve your sonics but only if your pump is of a design that can deliver the PSI for the longer run. Try it and find out.

From Bruce' website.

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3.6 PSI - 0riginal Takatsuki and ET-2 or 2.5

5.0- 7 PSI - WISA 300 air pump and ET-2 or 2.5 with high pressure manifolds

>10 PSI - users with shop compressors and ET-2 or 2.5 high pressure manifolds

Note, if the pressure readings are higher than those listed above, the manifold could be clogged, if the pressure readings are lower, this suggest that the pump may not be performing correctly.

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Slaw - you got your tonearm direct from Bruce correct ? What PSI was your HP manifold designed for ?

Lets start there.... imo this is your personal reference point for your system ...
Chris, some brilliant posts recently. Thanks! And thanks for keeping one of the very best threads on the 'goN alive and relevant.

Re "time on one's hands": as Vic said in "Broken Arrow": "Ain't it cool?"
Slaw, nice to see you back on this thread. Normally, I would defer to the OP for any ceremonial "Welcome back" commentary; but, since you addressed me.....

As with most things, context is everything. I don't remember the context of my comment re 18.5 psi, but I I assure you that there was no personal slight intended by my comment (geez! we're talking about air pressure after all). I would normally welcome an opportunity to clarify a comment and continue dialog, but I see no point if you are simply going to "disappear". BTW, I have enjoyed your music posts in the recent past.

Frogman to Slaw -
BTW, I have enjoyed your music posts in the recent past.

+3

I know that Slaw has a record collection that many can only dream of. A true music lover.
**** ET2 Thread Yellow Sticky- VTA Block Pt.Two -How to Torque the VTA Block Bolts ****

This post also to be known as ;

"Honey, winter is coming. Do you think we need to put new tires on the car?"

Well non-ET2'ers must by now realize that you need to be a little mechanical minded with this tonearm, if a post subject is dedicated to how to torque the VTA block bolts on the ET2 ? Would you expect any less for something that is patented ?

Its now confession time for ET2 owners past and present. How many of you after seeing the gap between the manifold housing the bearing block said to yourself ... Hmmm... I better close this gap, somebody left it loose and open. If you did this, you just locked your VTA. Jammed the worm gear post up against the rack of teeth as far as it will go. If you use the VTA in this manner you will strip the rack of teeth or it will not move at all if there is still tread left on the rack of teeth.

VTA Block Gap and How to Torque the 4 VTA Block Bolts

The pic shows (left side) where the VTA Gap is and (right side) one of the VTA bolts being torqued. This is repeated for the other 3 VTA bolts. Takes only minutes to do.

Two important tips from Bruce mentioned on the earlier VTA Yellow Sticky Part One post.

1) Use the short end of the allen key. Torque is dramatically reduced.

2) Do not make adjustments to the 4 VTA Block bolts while arm is mounted. You will throw out your alignment. All adjustments should be made off table.

Also just to clarify when Bruce says .060 -.090 gap between the bearing block and the back adjacent surfaces on the manifold housing. It's in inches. The adjustment can be done by sight if you are familiar with it. A feeler gauge is shown in the picture on the right. And the gap range is a starting point as all ET2 VTA Blocks are machined individually.

The key is to be even in the torquing on the 4 bolts, and to torque so there is a nice personal firm yet smooth feel and no binding to the VTA mechanism. Some of you may notice that the gap in the picture above is well below the .060 - .090 recommended range that Bruce recommends. This one is down to .20 but it still happens to track properly and true. How can this be ? I asked Bruce to confirm some observations.



Bruce - is it a fair statement that over time the rack of teeth due to friction with the post will wear down. When the firm VTA feel starts feeling loose it should be torqued down evenly a little more, off the table. If this procedure is followed you will get many many years of use out of the VTA block ?

I believe some have been just turning the VTA bolts individually without realizing the effect on the rack of teeth, resulting in uneven wear and at some point a VTA block that goes out of alignment.

Chris

Chris,

This is correct.
- thanks -

brucet

So the rack of teeth "tread" wears down over a long period of time due to friction with the post worm gear. Maybe some new tires will be needed for the one in the picture soon.

If you want to use a gapper like the one in the pic then can be bought cheaply from the automotive parts store. The one you need will look like the top picture in this link.

Gapper

Each of the metal shims are called feeler gauges. Try to get one that goes up to .35. Also companies like Acklainds Grainger sells longer version feeler gauges.

Pull out the two or three largest ones so they are side by side. Insert them between the VTA bearing blocks and the back surface of manifold housing. Turn bolts till snug but that you can still remove the shim. Test and feel how the VTA lever works off table. If it is firm and smooth your ET2 VTA Block is now torqued evenly and ready to be attached to the Pillar Post.