Eminent Technology ET-2 Tonearm Owners

Richardkrebs: Thank you for your questions. The tank on the Jun-Air is around 7 gal., so is my auxillary tank that is an aluminum tank from Harbor Freight. This is not an oil-less compressor.

I can tell you emphatically that even before I added this compressor into my system, my way of virtually eliminating any and all pulsing and moisture was done superbly by my Motor-Guard M-30 (toilet paper filter). ( I do remember adding a comment that when I had a compressor that ran continuously that produced a large amount of moisture, I had remedied all concerns with the Motor-Guard filter). Still I pointed out that upon introducing the Jun-Air, it made an improvement that was noticeable and welcome. (Keep in mind my (DIY) Motroxix regulator and the (pre-filter and post-filter) that are really not needed but go to my over-riding philosophy of more insurance is better, as well as these two things are (visual) reminders of a potential problem that I may never have. They Do not interfere with the sonics at all. Frankly, with this compressor, I doubt if you need all of the above filters and traps, etc...

I have a (storage bottle) for oil/moisture that escapes from the tank as well as a needle valve that I can easily open to expel any excess in the tank into the orange bowl.

IMO, this is a perfect set-up, certainly one I'd recommend to anyone. From what I hear, (from the technicians for Jun-Air), these compressors never fail! I use the recommended synthetic oil that, while expensive, should rarely need changing.

Ct0517: I use a #2 silk bead cord that lasts and lasts. The previous one lasted over one year. When it broke, it just "laid down". To me, the word "snaps" brings up a vision of tension that I would never associate with this type of application/cord. I've had the current one on for at least one year. Apparently I'm doing something right! Wouldn't you agree?

Richardklebs: The manufacturers' recommended cycle on/off intervals are no less than 15 minutes. I've done better than double that. My set-up is really a worry free one for years.

SLAW - I use a #2 silk bead cord that lasts and lasts.

Thanks very much Slaw for the info.
your experiences with VPI and having to use a Cord type drive coincides with mine experiences from the past. IMO - The VPI decks (platter/bearing design) is not designed for use with thread /string. A heavier type cord is required. Sure you can use string/thread but it won't last long. This was the reason I asked.

Years ago in conversations with Mike at VPI his preference was to use the Spider brand Fishing Line.

Regarding your use of the word tension. IMO - tension is a relative term when it comes to TT's. For example.

My Verdier La Platine Granito was designed for thread/string. The thread is set up very loose. When properly set up you can actually flick at the thread as the music plays and there is no noticeable pitch change. The platter keeps going. In fact the motor which flickers as it turns the platter can also be shut off and on within a couple of seconds with the same result. The string/thread side load (tension) on the Verdier platter is very low. In comparison my previously modded TNT "did" need significantly more side load tension to work.

My experience has also been the smaller/thinner the string/thread in use, the greater, more explosive the sonics. This was one of the reasons that drove me to a final deck designed specifically for string/thread.

I am using
Guetermann s-303-800

Cheers

Ct0517: I think as far as our use of "tension" or "snaps" is mostly semantics. I appreciate your pointing out the (thread) above. (One never knows how or when or where some little, but very important piece of information, will come from). As you noted, I too found that the smaller gauge thread results in a more open/dynamic/pleasing sound.

I do remember our conversation regarding the Rek-O-Kut, at the time I thought I'd like to have a second TT/project. I've done so much with my current TT and am very pleased (to say the least) that I now have the extra parts (platter/bearing) and more importantly the (shop) equipment and greater knowledge to actually build a second one, that is, whenever I find the time to update my main table as I somewhat described earlier.

Here are some of my materials I've put together for the (main) project:

(a) The purple heart boards (will be sandwiched using a 3M epoxy in conjunction with 1/16" quasitropic carbon fiber sheet. The boards will be oriented at 180 degrees on each consecutive layer. I'm hoping to have a brass ring machined for the bearing interface that will be countersunk into the top board, to give me a great ground structure reference to work with. (There will be pockets drill for lead shot/epoxy).
(b) I'm kind of "up in the air" still on if I want this structure to be all there is for the platter base or have a separate/second/well damped lower base that will be isolated from the upper base by brass cones and possibly a mechanical fastening system that can be torqued for listening results.
(c) The new motor enclosure,thread tensioning pod and arm pod will be of similar construction, however I'm still wanting to have my motor enclosure top plate machined from air-craft aluminum.

I'd appreciate any thoughts here on my above project. I believe it is very well thought out but will welcome any valid concerns/thoughts/improvements.