Eminent Technology ET-2 Tonearm Owners



Where are you? What mods have you done ?

I have been using these ET2's for over 9 years now.
I am still figuring them out and learning from them. They can be modified in so many ways. Bruce Thigpen laid down the GENIUS behind this tonearm over 20 years ago. Some of you have owned them for over 20 years !

Tell us your secrets.

New owners – what questions do you have ?

We may even be able to coax Bruce to post here. :^)

There are so many modifications that can be done.

Dressing of the wire with this arm is critical to get optimum sonics along with proper counterweight setup.

Let me start it off.

Please tell us what you have found to be the best wire for the ET-2 tonearm ? One that is pliable/doesn’t crink or curl. Whats the best way of dressing it so it doesn’t impact the arm. Through the spindle - Over the manifold - Below manifold ? What have you come up with ?
ct0517
Ct0517: I think as far as our use of "tension" or "snaps" is mostly semantics. I appreciate your pointing out the (thread) above. (One never knows how or when or where some little, but very important piece of information, will come from). As you noted, I too found that the smaller gauge thread results in a more open/dynamic/pleasing sound.

I do remember our conversation regarding the Rek-O-Kut, at the time I thought I'd like to have a second TT/project. I've done so much with my current TT and am very pleased (to say the least) that I now have the extra parts (platter/bearing) and more importantly the (shop) equipment and greater knowledge to actually build a second one, that is, whenever I find the time to update my main table as I somewhat described earlier.

Here are some of my materials I've put together for the (main) project:

(a) The purple heart boards (will be sandwiched using a 3M epoxy in conjunction with 1/16" quasitropic carbon fiber sheet. The boards will be oriented at 180 degrees on each consecutive layer. I'm hoping to have a brass ring machined for the bearing interface that will be countersunk into the top board, to give me a great ground structure reference to work with. (There will be pockets drill for lead shot/epoxy).
(b) I'm kind of "up in the air" still on if I want this structure to be all there is for the platter base or have a separate/second/well damped lower base that will be isolated from the upper base by brass cones and possibly a mechanical fastening system that can be torqued for listening results.
(c) The new motor enclosure,thread tensioning pod and arm pod will be of similar construction, however I'm still wanting to have my motor enclosure top plate machined from air-craft aluminum.

I'd appreciate any thoughts here on my above project. I believe it is very well thought out but will welcome any valid concerns/thoughts/improvements.
Also, I'd like to thank the following people for their influence on this project:

Ct0157: for his early suggestion to have the arm & table separated
Frogman: for his insight on tonearm wire construction
Dgarretson: for supplying me with the bearing info needed for my future thread tensioning pod and the inspiration for my upcoming tonearm wire design

all of the above have been a great resource!
Slaw.
Many thanks for sharing the info on your compressor set up. Most interesting.

Also good luck with your TT project.
Just a comment on the idea of using lead shot. I have had mixed results using shot. Both in loose form and epoxy glued. In some installs it seems to create a smearing effect, however using one piece lead in sheet or rod form has always been positive. This provided it is not inserted into the energy loop we are trying to damp. That is, I have found it beneficial if the loop is laminated with lead.
As always YMMV

cheers.
Richardkrebs: Your observation is interesting, and more food for thought. I know from my experiments in using lead shot in various ways over the years that in does work to a certain extent, but one needs to be careful in the amount used while considering (as you say), the particular type of (situation) it is used in as well. In most of my listening experiments using it solely for a damping effect on top of speakers or stationary components, I've found that while it does work, too much deadens the sound in those types of applications. Since, I've found that brass works the best there. (Just the thought of lead as a substance, brings to mind (deadness), with no ability for any resonance to be controlled, just trapped and/or redirected). This is exactly the kind of thoughtful observation I was hoping to receive. Thanks, your thoughts are very welcome.