How to spot a high current amps?


How can I tell what qualifies as a high current amp? What qualifies as high, medium and low current values and furthermore, how can I figure out the current rating for an amp (solid state or tube)?
coreymccann
So does anyone have a rough method of evaluating current without physically contacting the amp. All of the aforementioned techniques are sort of "tire kicking"...
PS - to Dweller

The fuse argument is a good one, but not as you state it. Remember, the amp's power supply converts power line voltage up or down as required by the design (tube or transistor). You can't compare line current directly to speaker current.

So its more correct to say that the fuses limit the continuous power the amp can provide. Power is also equal to voltage times current, so a 10 amp fuse at a line voltage of 115 would limit power to a maximum of 1150 watts.

This number is an upper bound but not a least upper bound, and doesn't take into account efficiency, which would limit power (and thus current) further.

Of course fuses take time to blow, so the instantaneous power drawn from the AC line could exceed this number.
The LFD Mistral SE has no current limiting circuitry. It puts out 75 wpc. Does this mean it's a high current amp? I don't know. To me, if it was a true high current amp it should be able to drive <1 ohm Apogee ribbons and the only limitation would be maximum loudness based on the rated 75 wpc.
Coreymccann there really is no way to know all the facts from a spec sheet. Even if you could find out the amp rating, there are many other problems which you'll never know about. For example, many amps produce high order harmonic frequency distortions which can be incredibly unpleasant. I spoke with a top U.S. amp designer and he mentioned something about thermal stability or intermodulation (Aball is the expert on this stuff) which isn't even measureable but can be audible.
Another way to get high current is with a tube input stage because tubes can handle much higher current peaks than transistors.
I understand your problem because I am having the same problem. You could spend $5,000 trying out all the $2,000 amps out there to find the one that is right for you. So we all have to live in our own fantasy world to some extent and figure what we own is pretty good (or good enough). Or else go broke trying everything in existance.
I agree with Valhalla, the weight of an amplifier is a good indicator of performance (power delivery) however it does not necessarily mean good sound quality. It really comes down to how the amp is engineered but having a big power supply can be a plus in a well engineered amp. By the way Valhalla, how are you? We have had excellent some excellent past transactions. Thanks PHD