140wpc into 8 ohms: enough for Contour 1.3SEs?


Hi --

New here. I have a Hafler DH-220 modded by Jim Ott at Nothwest Audio Labs to provide power in excess of 140 watts per channel into 8 ohms. Will this be enough power for a pair of Dynaudio Contour 1.3SE speakers (a likely near-future purchase)?

Thanks in advace,
Carl
carlsaff
I'm sure that the amp will drive the speakers, but whether or not it will do it with finesse and authority at high volumes or during complex passages will remain to be seen. My experience with Dynaudio's is that they need as much power as you can foist upon them. Then again, if you are in a small room, you'll need less power regardless of what speaker you use. Sean
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What are some ideal amplifiers for these monitors? I don't want to get rid of the Hafler -- I like it's precise, clean, no-nonsense sound (not to mention I can't afford a new power amp AND the Dynaudios just yet!), but if something else would pair better, I'd like to hear it.
I used a Mark Levinson 27.5 which is 100 WPC and it sounded great. with the 1.3SEs
Having more watts helps in headroom and you always can do better.I think power is over rated as I would rather have a good 50w ampo than a 500 w amp that does not do the presentation as well.

Right now I am using a Panasonic receiver that is not as good for bringing things in the foreground out as well as my Passive Controller and Modified B&K amp out.

I would like to have that ML amp also.BTW I love it when people ask if 100w amps will be enough for driving horns like Klipsch.

I do not use Dynaudio's BTW I have NEAR M50III's with updated drivers and XO's.

good luck!
www.nearsota.com
Panny: While i basically agree with your statement pertaining to "quality over quantity", there are many commone reasons why that simply doesn't work.

First: If you are driving the amp quite hard on a regular basis, most amps will tend to "fall apart" sonically. Delicacy, fluidity, detail, separation of instruments and notes, etc... all tend to get lost in the shuffle.

Second: If the amp is being pushed hard enough to be driven into clipping, sound will surely suffer. This is not to mention that damage to both the amp and speakers could result.

Third: Many low powered amps of very high quality are biased quite richly i.e. they stay in Class A longer than a bigger amp that switches into Class B sooner. This will generate quite a bit of heat. Judging from what i've seen in most installations, the lack of air-flow around such amps is an invitation to pre-mature failure and / or increased trips to the repair shop.

As such, you have to figure all the factors into the equation. As a general rule, i would prefer a richly biased high power amp to achieve both the low level sonics and maintain the dynamic headroom that i find necessary to keep things sounding "clean and cohesive".

Carlsaff: If you like the sound of your modified Hafler, try looking into a modified DH-500 or, probably more appropriately, an Acoustat TNT 200. Sean
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