Audioengr: I don't doubt that the amps weren't a "matched pair" and / or operating exactly as they should. This is part of the problem with buying mass produced gear. Having said that, we've already seen that many "custom built" and "mega-dollar" components come out of factory with BIG problems and a lack of quality control. This is why i align all of the products that i sell before i sell them. I also tell the customer to bring the units back in after a couple of months of normal use. That way, i can inspect and adjust as needed.
If someone wants to obtain optimum performance from their gear, they really should have it spec'd and possibly aligned AFTER running it in for a period of time. Components do change, circuits do settle and adjustments shift. Anybody that tells you that they don't is either lying to you, knows not of what they speak or are dealing with circuitry that is so over-designed and lacking in thermal stress that only the government could afford it.
With that in mind, idle current of the amp is spec'd at 250 watts. While i would have to assume that this is in high bias mode, 250 watts of steady state dissipation will surely dissipate a sizable amount of heat. That's appr as much as two backyard flood lamps, which would surely scorch your skin after being turned on for a period of time. These amps are also spec'd at pulling well over a kilowatt each when driven hard, which will surely heat things up a bit too. On top of that, 1000+ watts of demand per amp ( when throttling the system ) will surely cause voltage sag in most 20 amp circuits, hence my other comments pertaining to your AC set-up. That's why i said that you must either have very high efficiency speakers, high impedance speakers and / or not listen very loudly at all. Even so, if left on in high bias mode, your amps should be getting noticeably warm. If they don't, they aren't running in Class A. Sean
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