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Supratek Tubes and Tube Swappin' for Everybody

I will have a Supratek Chenin in my set up in a day or so. Since so many folks are rolling tubes around here I was hoping to garner a comprehensive list of everybodies favorite tube compliments. Be it NOS or NIB or WLATB (Whatever's layin around the basement)
Being that the "Deal of the Century" thread is a little more like a novel I figured this would be a good place to post questions and answers related to one subject of Supratek amps and pres.
On to the subject of me. I don't have immediate plans to swap tubes as I've figured that Mr. Maloney would supply us with something listenable for the break in period. But, since so many have reported such dramatic improvments I want to ask this question:
What is your favorite compliment for quietest gain and dynamics in the phono stage?
I will be using the Chenin exclusively for vinyl ( I don't have a CD player) and listen to loads of early rock and roll and Jazz bands, smaller jazz bands mostly, quartets and quintets. Some classical, the usual Beethoven and Mozart, but usually just a lot of loud garage rock.
Ok, now lets see what happens.
mc5baby
jazzdude
332 posts
 
When I asked Mick about what tubes I could roll in the regulator position he said the heater voltage has to be 6.3v and the heater current can't be more than 1.5a.
According to the western electric datasheet for the 350b it says the heater current is 1.6a. I recall someone in the "preamp deal of the century thread" said that using 350b's damaged their SupraTek powersupply.

http://www.westernelectric.com/spec_sheets/350B.pdf

Yall might want to check with Mick to see if the 350B is ok to use.

I was interested in using the 350b myself but this kind of put me off a bit.
bwhite
807 posts
 
Bummer. I'm going to remove my 350B's and go back to the Sovteks that the preamp came with. :)

I don't know... is .1a extra heater current in a regulator really too much for the power supply to handle?

I haven't heard of anyone having trouble with the 350B's and know quite a few people using them.

The power supply problems I am aware of are caused mostly by fast starting - direct heated rectifiers.
fiddler
581 posts
 
Jazzdude, before I ever tried the 350B, I emailed Mick and asked him if it was okay. He said it was okay and his only caution to me was to guard against unscrupulous tube dealers selling counterfeit 350B's.

I have had no problem with my power supply that I know of and I have been using the 350B's for 1 1/2 to 2 years.

BTW, I just got in two more 6106's and I got the music back. No doubt about in my Chardonnay. The bass is much tighter and the soundstage is incredibly more focused. The difference between the Mullard 5AR4 and the 6106 is rather dramatic. No going back for me. The 5AR4 has boomy bass and less defined edges all the way around compared to the 6106. But Bwhite may be correct in implying that there is a synergy between the 6106 and the 350Bs.
whoopadeedoo
50 posts
 
It's been about a week of burning in the 6106. It definitely sounds different then the GZ34, but not better in my system. I can only arrive at the conclusion that one's opinion of this configuration is very system specific. With my Art Audio Jotas and Merlin VSM, the 6106+350B combo was too lean. Swapping in my Audio Note speakers (inherently colored, full, warm speakers), the 6106+350B was better.

I'm going back to my metal base GZ34. Besides the fact I prefer the sonics, I prefer to run my gear with tubes it's designed for. I've had transformers/power supplies (in other gear) damaged when substituting non-equivalents (e.g. ECC32 in 6SN7), so I have a inclination to play it safe these days. FYI: this damage is rarely immediately apparent, but rather it manifests itself over long durations (e.g. years). Just be careful when running your gear beyond tolerance.
jazzdude
332 posts
 
Bwhite and Fiddler - my intent was only to bring the heater current issue to the attention of SupraTek owners at large. However they act on that info is up to the individual. We are talking about a small amount of power. Less than 1 extra watt DC for both heaters combined. But design specs normally exist for a reason.
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