Here's How I Make My Equipment Racks


In response to a previous thread, here's how I make my
equipment racks:
List of equipment: 3/4" thick MDF cut to desired shelf
size
(4) 3/4" diameter 6' threaded steel rods
3/4" nuts and washers (8 per shelf)
Drill a 3/4" hole in the corner of each shelf in exactly the
same place. I do this by scribing a line with a square 1 1/2" inch in and using a nail set to punch a hole where the lines intersect. A drill press works great to drill the holes so they are all straight and true. Now that you have
a hole drilled in each corner of each shelf, simply screw
the whole thing together, adjusting each shelf to fit your
gear. Use a square to make sure your first shelf is straight, and measure each one likewise. If you do this
correctly, your rack will sit straight and level. If you
need to level it further, buy (4) 3/4 rod connectors, which
are about 3" high, and screw these into the bottom of the
rod and use them to level it. I paint the steel rod using
Krylon Industrial enamel (flat black looks best), and paint
the shelves to match your decor. This makes a very solid,
heavy audio rack. Total cost is about $40 for the steel
rod, $15 for the nuts and washers (about $1.00 a pound)
$20 for the MDF, and $5.00 worth of paint for a total under
$100. I've made several racks this way and have used the
same method to make CD racks.
Dave
dave43
Hi Sean,

>>>The fact that you had the courage to mention that the Ikea design had similarities to your more expensive Neuance shelves shows that you aren't afraid to tell the truth. Even if it may come at some personal expense.<<<

You'll note that I stated that the "IKEA*lyte" is conceptually similar .You should also note that I didn't blurt out the Neuance "recipe".
;0) hehe
Generally speaking, DIY'ers wouldn't be primary customers for a product such as mine since brainstorming,discovery and the act of crafting itself are as important to the audio tinkerer as the end result.Actually,allowing folks to hear for themselves the benefits of low mass/rapid dissipation support is my best and most effective means of promotion.
When I first started doing these things back in the mid- 80's, I don't believe that the term PRaT had even yet been coined and with the exception of Linn and Naim dealerships,any talk of "tunefullness" or pace was universally met by blank stares and polite gestures to the door.For a time, the british press championed the cause but somewhere along the way, the arrogance of Linn marketing tactics turned as many off as they had educated.

Back to your project-
I'm in complete agreement with your points/requirements no.s 1-5.
I have been searching for some time, such a product to recommend to my own customers and last year discovered a support system that meets all of your issues-
Apollo Aria modular supports which are available thru May Audio, the former North American Target distributor.
These are modular units of tubular steel construction with stacking "add-on" modules bolted firmly and rigidly to the level below. Each "add-on" module is available in various heights to accomodate a wide variety of componentry.I have made special arrangements with May Audio so that my customers can purchase these units directly from May Audio pre-threaded and including a spike decoupling hardware kit supplied for each module and sold at a slight discount without the stock shelving.The units are extremely well constructed,highly effective, reasonably priced and quite attractive.The 455mm width model is the best performer.
http://www.apollohifi.co.uk/

>>> How do you think this will work ?<<<
Great.

>>>High / low points of a design like this ??? <<<

The only major disadvantage that i forsee is the continuous nature of the threaded rod.It will have a tendancy to transfer fairly effectively floorbourne energy from the base to the top.
If some means could be done to secure the sections with 2 or more shorter rods or individual bolts to make it discontinous you'd have a near ideal support framework.
Barring that, I'd suggest several pea-sized blobs of blu-tac to each of the full length threaded rods.I'd not attempt to damp them heavily,tho.

>>>What diameter threaded rod would you recommend for the risers ? <<<

I'd say that it isn't all that critical but my preference would be to use the smaller diameter rod stock to keep the resonant frequencies high.The greater the mechanical impedance mismatch between the framework and the shelving, the more effective your support will be at blocking floorbourne vibrations from reaching the components.

>>>Should i use the same threaded rod for the three racks that i'll need for this system ?<<<

Now you're getting a bit anal.
;0)
One-size fits-all rods should be just fine.

Best,
Ken
-never do multiple re-edits at 3:oo am :0)

Re:in my reply to Sean, the next to last comment should instead read -

>>>What diameter threaded rod would you recommend for the risers ? <<<

I'd say that it isn't all that critical but my preference would be to use the smaller diameter rod stock to increase the likelyhood for energies to be kept at higher frequency modes which the shelving can more readily absorb/convert to heat.

Ken
Thank you for all the detailed information you've provided, Ken. This has been an extremely helpful discussion.
Ken, Thanks for getting back to *ALL* of us : )

I'll take a look at the website that you provided. If their prices are good, i'll be upset that i didn't find them PREVIOUS to buying all of those other racks that i thought were a "rare commodity" : )

How would you feel about using foam "pipe wrap" or "plumbing insulation" tightly wrapped around the threaded rod ? This should:

1) minimize any ringing / vibration transfer along the rod

2) damp room reflections from the rod

3) keep mass to a minimum.

Any thoughts / comments ??? Sean
>

PS... Psychic, what does "IDEM" mean ???