Were to get fuse box for dedicated line?


I am in the process of finishing my basement and have decided to put in a dedicated line for my stereo system. I am having problems locating a fuse box. No problem in finding fuses (plastic, no ceramic yet). The only thing I have found so far from a local electrical store is the switched, fuse holder, like what is used on most furnaces. Is this what people are using or is it a regular fuse box? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Any suggestions on where to find ceramic fuses would be great also.
maxsound2000
Fuses vs Breakers. Well I don't know about sonic differences, but as to protection here's something to think about. A tree next to my house was hit by a very strong lightning bolt, which came underground into my house doing damage to all the TV's, VCR's, Microwave, Refrigerator control panel, Computer modem. My audio stuff (dedicated line with old fashoned fuse)was unscathed!
In my old house I had at that time a mix of fuses and circuit breakers. Almost every fuse, of every kind was blown. Not a single breaker opened.
The insurance adjuster told me that the insurance companies have forced fuses to be replaced by breakers, not because breakers work any better, but because people quite commonly put pennies under blown fuses! They really did that. I thought it was just a joke.
I'd like to rescind my post above. This thread put me back into experimentation mode this morning and I removed the "mini-breaker" type fuse and replaced it with a standard plastic. They do sound quite different. But I've come to the conclusion this morning that the "mini-breaker" was rolling off the highs as well as being inaccurate in that area, leading to a perception of being smoother. But the standard fuse is definitely more accurate and extended (possibly not a great thing with bad digital recordings). My tv is on a separate circuit and I was running a mini-breaker on that as well, which I replaced with a standard plastic, which in turn confirmed my findings on the audio side by offering up a slightly better picture.
... I was assuming a remote panel. Installing a parallel, or subfeed panel, is a legitimate installation provided that the subfeed panel is properly bonded, grounded and supplied with neutral lugs for each circuit. In other words, it has to be a UL listed load center type panel - not a switched fuse, gem box or a metal vanilla box with fuse holders. Further, the wiring to the panel has to be taken off the main lugs downstream of the main panel breaker and run through a bonded conduit fitting only.

Another snag is that if you do find a load center type fuse box, you must use the edison s-type base fuse (tough to find in ceramic). Bussmann still makes the standard W edison bases in ceramic; but these are not allowed in new load center installations - the "penny argument" - just in switched fuse boxes for furnaces, etc.

Some installations do have a circuit breaker provided by the utility in the meter pan but most of the time the meter is protected by what are called limiter lugs. These are, basically, inline coupling devices with a fusible link, meant to protect the utility wires only.

As far as breakers v fuses - breakers have more copper in the power path than plug fuse; albeit a twisted, convoluted pathway. Maybe it's breaker contact pressure that's responsible for degrading the sound, I don't know. But, fuses definitely protect better than breakers by limiting current inrush much faster.