Some excellent responses.
In my HT which I built, soundproofing was of ultimate concern, as well as the sound quality. I had just under 8' of height.
To sound proof, I put prodigious amounts of insulation inbetween joists. However, I understand that if it's packed too tightly, it will actually work worse. I did pack it in around ducts, etc. which could carry noise.
I attatched "hat channel" or resilient channel (same thing) across the joists, then put up sheets of Homasote, which is a paper product good for noise barrier. I put the channel and homasote (you can check it out; it's at Home Despot), on the interior walls of the HT as well. It's excellent at sound blocking!
Then, put dropped ceiling in over the homasote and channel. This is one QUIET room! Very little noise transmission in or out of room. I can have system cranked pretty good and virtually no noise upstairs above.
Be forewarned; any "holes" or spaces in your ceiling will transmit noise. To allow for can lighting as well as a perfectly sound proof ceiling, I built individual sound-proof boxes recessed into the joists for the cans to sit in. They could be moved about within the boxes later for placement on the dropped ceiling grid. Worked perfect!
You'll have to caulk and foam all spaces! Even electrical outlets. Well worth the extra time.
I have zero noise from the dropped ceiling (it's a 3" drop; I had a professional install - very glad I did!)
Oh, and yes, if this room will double as a HT, DEFINITELY go witht he black ceiling tiles and channel! Very worth it! Really gives a classy appearance to the HT!
Get a subscription to Home Theater Builder Magazine and buy the past issues. There are some on sound proofing and every other aspect of room. Extremely valuable insights! don't begin building without first checking them out!
In my HT which I built, soundproofing was of ultimate concern, as well as the sound quality. I had just under 8' of height.
To sound proof, I put prodigious amounts of insulation inbetween joists. However, I understand that if it's packed too tightly, it will actually work worse. I did pack it in around ducts, etc. which could carry noise.
I attatched "hat channel" or resilient channel (same thing) across the joists, then put up sheets of Homasote, which is a paper product good for noise barrier. I put the channel and homasote (you can check it out; it's at Home Despot), on the interior walls of the HT as well. It's excellent at sound blocking!
Then, put dropped ceiling in over the homasote and channel. This is one QUIET room! Very little noise transmission in or out of room. I can have system cranked pretty good and virtually no noise upstairs above.
Be forewarned; any "holes" or spaces in your ceiling will transmit noise. To allow for can lighting as well as a perfectly sound proof ceiling, I built individual sound-proof boxes recessed into the joists for the cans to sit in. They could be moved about within the boxes later for placement on the dropped ceiling grid. Worked perfect!
You'll have to caulk and foam all spaces! Even electrical outlets. Well worth the extra time.
I have zero noise from the dropped ceiling (it's a 3" drop; I had a professional install - very glad I did!)
Oh, and yes, if this room will double as a HT, DEFINITELY go witht he black ceiling tiles and channel! Very worth it! Really gives a classy appearance to the HT!
Get a subscription to Home Theater Builder Magazine and buy the past issues. There are some on sound proofing and every other aspect of room. Extremely valuable insights! don't begin building without first checking them out!