Shelf Material


I have tried so many different shelf materials, and some are better than others, but I feel like I am just spraying bullets that always miss the bulls-eye. So far, I cannot live with the brightness of glass, the ringing of marble or granite, the sluggishness of acrylic, the muddiness of mdf etc. Light and rigid seems better than heavy and dense - in that I can live with the downsides more easily. I use heavily constructed welded steel racks - spiked to the floor and upward spikes supporting the shelves - and I reckon this is right. I like the way bladder products get rid of the resonances that plague shelves, but find that the way they slow down the pace of the music is hard to accept. Does anyone have some answers on this?
redkiwi
I have a demo Neuance Alpha sized 18-1/2" x 14-1/2"(fits Mana Mini/Reference Table) that I would be happy to let you have for the cost of shipping.Let me know if this is something you'd like to investigate. Best, Ken GreaterRanges/Neuance greaterranges@msn.com www.neuanceaudio.com
I've tried Corian, Redkiwi. And I didn't like it. It ruined dynamics, sounded slow and muddy. The maple butcher blocks that Albert describe work MUCH better. You may want to call the local restaurant supply businesses close to you and compare prices. I got mine for a little less than the McMaster Carr price. Good luck!
Redkiwi: Thanks for the update. I just screwed up my left shoulder and am going to have to wait on the project, but here are a few ideas that I have had. Using small maybe 1/64th piano wire with line tightners for the cables (they should not stretch like braided wire or plastic line)and should pretty much remain level after the frame settles in. If I can squeeze the extra height in my cabinet I would also like to try double shelves that layer as follows (MDF/Vibrapods/MDF/component with stock feet resting on top) and a sheet of aluminum on the bottom side of the bottom layer to help shield my amps from the power supply in my CD player wich will rest directly below the amps. I figure that if it doesn't work I can always reinstall the same shelves by placing lips on the inside sides of the cabinet and resting the shelves on them. Then just play with isolation teqniques between the shelf and the lip. In the meantime I am going to have to rest my amps in "cat territory" on the outside top of my cabinet.
I love it. You guys are all freaks. I should know, we can smell our own. I am following the thread closely, as I will be re-positioning my stuff soon enough. Something you may want to try is Lexan, which is similar to plexiglass. A thick piece of plexiglass is much lighter than glass, and shouldnt ring. Good luck!!!!
Caterham1700 - thanks for your generosity, if you will allow me to be a little generous in return. I will send you an email directly. Recres - I have heard similar comments about Corian, but am curious to try because I think it will ping less than perspex. On the other hand "slow" is what I fear most about it as a material, being so dense and heavy. Did you use up-turned spikes underneath the Corian? Great to hear confirmation of the butchers block idea, and given Albert's recommendation I have tried to source some locally. However, I have found that no one brings it in and that our native South Island Beach is used universally in this country. If I can get some I will try it - but I think I will now have to begin investigating bringing some Maple in from the US. Dekay, I definitely recommend you use up-turned spikes between lips and shelf for your plan B, over any compliant material. But so far plan A (ie. suspension) sounds better still. Apart from issues of stretching, is there any reason to believe that a taut wire like the piano wire you mention will sound better than a wire that has a little give, such as the nylon I have used? Oh yeah, Gthirteen, this really defines the freaks among us, but whether it is my room or my hearing, this area of vibration appears to me to be as utterly critical as room treatment, yet unlike room treatment in that there does not seem to be any conventional wisdom on the best strategy. As I indicated when starting this thread, this is the one area of this hobby where I feel I am still way off achieving decent results (let alone understanding). I did try plexiglass and found it to be better than glass but not as good as perspex, but I might try a thicker piece and see what happens.