To Power Condition or not?


I have 6 monblock amps (balanced bidging of Belles stereo amps).
4 are OCM 200s (100 amps of current / 400 watts balanced)
2 are the new 350A (>30 amps current / 800 watts balanced)
2 Velodyne Subs.

All front end components are through a Bybee Pro Conditioner (no amps connected)

I have been using a TICE Power block - Titan for the power amps and have run out of receptacles since I added 3 new amps. (only supports 6 power cords).

Questions:
Should I add another Tice Powerblock to expand the connections?
Should I use any power conditioning on the amps?
Should I run X+ new 20 amp circuits from the main electric supply panel and direct connect the amps & subs?
How do I eliminate the 100 Hz hum (other than lifting the grounds which seems to reduce it significantly)?
harleyhawk
Wow, thanks for the rec!
Yes, two years ago I installed dedicated lines and made my own PCs from the magical belden 83802, and have never looked back! Incredibly low noisefloor from the full shielding, nice current delivery from the 12AWG, and utter transparency from an ultralow loss all-Teflon dielectric.
I recently discovered that Schurter redesigned their old fragile solder-only IEC connector, now making a really great, heavy contact, screw-clamp design! Thus the idea of giving something back to the Audiogon community by assembling DIY PC Kits of this 83802 and fine connectors for only $35. I sell the 83802 raw for lines at $2.50/ft first 20', then $2.25 longer length. I'm thinking about duplicating the junction boxes I use. They comprise the great, cheap Pass & Seymour duplexes (silver-plated by Acme at $35 is PERHAPS cost-effective. Not sure.), set in all-aluminum junction boxes, hardwired to the brteaker panel.
I made one small one for digital (EMC-1 MKII and Alesis Masterlink), one for analog (MD100 tuner and Aleph P pre), and one with a 30amp switch for the monos in the basement (Aleph 2s). No conditioners, no surge protectors, no Wattagate-modified Marincos, just solid engineering, Teflon and 12AWG. Incredibly low noise floor! Sorry to wax on, but I believe that essentially hard-wiring your components to the breaker with good copper and all-Teflon is a cheap no-brainer. Let me know what you need. And don't think you'll need 10AWG unless you're running kilowatt monos more than 50 feet away.... Ern
Harleyhawk, I would recommend several dedicated 20 amp circuits and cryogenically treated outlets. See below:

Here is some information from several of my posts on Audiogon (another similar topic).

“I have experimented over the last year with various wires to use for dedicated 20-amp circuits. I have the following wire in use in no special order:
1) 10 gage Romex
2) 10 gage UV
3) Belden 83802
4) Virtual Dynamics 10 gage BX Cryogenically treated with Cryo’d circuit breaker. *

I have not tried the following but I’m sure it works, 10 gage solid THHN (white/black/green) manually (electric drill) spiral twist and snake through conduit.

To my ears on my revealing system I hear NO difference between (1-4)! I think simply using a dedicated circuit with 10 gage copper makes the biggest difference.

* There might be other positive factors to using cryogenically treated wiring besides sonics. It might lower the operating temperature of equipment.

I have also experimented with many outlets regular/cryogenically treated. My last purchase was the Acme silver plated/Cryo'd outlet which finally settled in and sounds good.

At the present time my favorite outlets are as follows: Hubbell 5362, Hubbell 8300, Wattgate 381, all three sound very good, I think I like the Hubbell 5362 just a bit more (a smoother more musical, dynamic presentation)
but I rank all three together. A person could buy three Hubbell's fully treated by Alan for the cost of one Wattgate 381!

Next in line I would rank the Acme silver plated/Cryo'd and the FIM (cryo'd) which I had Alan cryo/cable-cook.

The best looking put together, solid, built to last outlet I have seen and have in my possession is the Hubbell".
Post removed 
I can't believe that a Tice Power Block / Titan combo could feed all of those amps under load and NOT cause some type of voltage drop / signal decay. My suggestion is to get a couple of dedicated lines just for the amps and have the Titan converted over to a full fledged Power Block. This is not that hard to do. You could then split the current draw between the two Power Block's, which were in turn being fed off of their own dedicated lines.

Quite honestly, you really do need several more Power Blocks to do things right. With that kind of set-up, i would consider 4 Power Blocks a minimum and 6 as being "good".

The other alternative to this is to use one phenomenally huge Isolation transformer i.e. something like a 10 - 12 KVA model. You can find these surplus and it would probably cost you less than one Power Block at MSRP. It just wouldn't have the "audiophile approved" name on it. Sean
>