Soliloquy 6.2 Very Poor Treble .....

Distortion, from two of the above posts, I was also a bit intrigued by your crossover. Is there any possibility of providing a picture?

It is possible that the coil is in parallel, which is what one of your descriptions implied. In that case, my next question is to describe the network on the woofer. Does the capacitor there run in parallel with the woofer? While I wouldn't exactly be surprised, as I had heard the speaker they produced which was geared to 2A3 amplification (SMsomethingorother?) used a series crossover, it is rare - the Frieds we produce which ALL use series crossovers.

Yes, both L Pads and Zobel require a resitor in parallel. The L Pad consists of one resistor in series with the tweeter, along with one, downstream, in parallel. The Zobel consists of a capacitor and resistor in parallel.

Trelja, Good morning. Yes, I can email you a picture. It may be Friday before I get a chance to fiddle again. Tonight I must rack and bottle at least 75 bottles of Bordeaux. Can you say, sore back! ...and then I promised a friend, my Wife and I would have Sushi with Him and his new girlfriend. I'll shoot you a quick note through the A'gon system tonight. If you reply then I'll attach the pic and reply directly to you. Would you prefer a certain resolution?

The Coil on the Tweeter network is absolutely parallel. It attaches to one of the three positive leads coming from the large Cap and is wired directly to the negative post from the Amp, which in turn has a jumper soldered directly to the negative post from the Tweeter.

There is one Cap (identically sized to the Tweeter Cap FWIW), a somewhat larger gauge and winding Air Coil, and one 4 ohm Ceramic Resistor on the Midwoofer Board. The Coil is absolutely in series. My memory is saying, that the Midwoofer Cap and Resistor were in series on the negative leg with the Coil in series on the positive leg. Clearly my memory failed me badly last time, so I need to reaffirm this. I'll draw this circuit next time too.

Autospec, I tried jumping all the Resistors. The 15ohm Resistor added alot of treble, too much for me. The 6.2 was a little hot as well. The 4ohm seemed best. Also, jumping only the small Cap had a profound effect on "sparkle" without allowing the lower treble ranges to come to far forward. I would give that a try too.

I thought I would post a follow up to my experiments with the crossover here so it could be archived for the future.

First off, thanks so much to Trelja. I really learned a lot from him. After analyzing my Xover circuit he helped me find just the right tweak to achieve the desired results. He is truly a gentleman and a great resource to the A'gon community.

After trying several jumps in the Xover with results each time. I finally decided to jump the 4ohm resistor with a quality 2ohm. This has added just the right amount of air. Its not permanent and to be honest, with more and more time on them (about 750 hours now), it may be that the stock configuration may be the most suitable.

Autospec, I hope you got your 6.2s sounding to your liking.

Thank you for the kind words, Distortion.

Actually, I made a mistake in the initial analysis of the crossover. While thinking it was a 2nd order, after further review, it turned out to be a classic 3rd order, with 3 resistors. Mea culpa, mea culpa...

As far as tweaking, unless a redesign was in order, I'd probably keep things more or less the same, apart from trying the 2 Ohm, as Distortion is doing. If this wakes things up to the desired degree, but the sound seems harsh, but not overly forward, I would opt for replacing the three resistors with those from North Creek. Better resistors than the simple sand cast units in 99.9% of commercial speakers really get rid of the grain and harshness.