Amp and preamp on same outlet?


Just how much of a no-no is this? ARC goes as far to print in their manual to say to have the amp and preamp on their own circuit. I live in an apt. and I'm forced to have both plugged into the same outlet. Cords just don't reach....How much sound quality is lost by doing this? It sounds great as is, but is there a major detriment to this? I'm curious.
audiolover718

Also the stock Krell cord indeed has a 15 amp male plug, and probably for the reason you mentioned here earlier, but he feels it is good for 35 amps. It is a heavy sonofabitch.
03-07-15: Ct0517

LOL, he feels it is good for 35 amps? The manufacture of the plug rated the plug for a continuous connected load of 12 amps as per NEC Code, NEMA standards, as well as UL testing for a NEMA 5-15P 125V 15 amp plug. In other words the 15 amp plug can only be used on equipment that has an FLA of 12 amps or less. The 15 amp plug's blades and ground pin are the same size as that found on a 20 amp plug. The difference between the 15 amp plug and the 20 amp plug is on the 20 amp plug the neutral blade is turned 90 degrees with respect to the hot blade. In the electrical trade that is called making the device idiot proof. A 20 amp plug cannot be plugged into a 15 amp receptacle that could be connected to a 15 amp branch circuit, that is protected by a 15 amp breaker, in most cases the branch circuit wiring is #14 awg rated for 15 amps max.

Do you think Krell is so stupid they do not know that? Hey, but the tech says the plug is good for 35 amps. I guess he would say the #14 cu wire is good for 35 amps as well.

Forget about the plug, think about the non knowing consumer that bought the amp. If the plug on the amp plugs into the wall receptacle in his living room that's all that matters. Think the guy knows the branch circuit is only a 15 amp? All the consumer knows is that Krell knows what they are doing and the plug on the end of the cord plugged into the receptacle. Then his problems start. Who does he call first? Probably the dealer that sold him the amp. Just change the 15 amp breaker to a 20 amp breaker. Problem solved. Hell, the tech said the plug is good for 35 amps. Change it out to a 30 amp breaker! WhatÂ’s a few more connected load amps among friends.


I brought up what was discussed here about putting a 30 amp breaker in the fuse panel on a 20 amp line.
He laughed, called it counter productive and for what ? He does not support it, for some of reasons stated here and used some words that I can't publish here. He then rimmed me and told me to stop reading internet banter. I told him it was cabin fever but that today is a nice day so I will go out and play.

If he does not support it why is Krell telling owners of the amp to do it?

He then rimmed me and told me to stop reading internet banter.
Oh, I just bet he did! Maybe if he read what is posted on audio forums he might learn something. He may also learn non-qualified people are doing what he/Krell suggests and or maybe worse.
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Like I said early on in this thread Krell should be ashamed of themselves.

I would guess the tech is not a state licensed electrician and it is obvious he does not know what the hell he is talking about. His expertise stops where the power cord exits the equipment.

IF the amp has a 20 amp breaker on the back panel then the 125V plug should be a 20 amp plug. Krell should stop telling dealers as well as consumers that a 15 amp plug is good for 35 amps. The plug is not the issue. The issue is what the plug can be plugged into. If krell thought the 15 amp plug was plenty big, there in the FLA of the equipment does not exceed 12 amps, then they should have installed a 15 amp circuit breaker on the rear panel of the amp instead of a 20. Do you know why they didn't?

NEC Code

Table 210.21(B)(2) Maximum Cord-and-Plug-Connected Load to Receptacle

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"IF, Furutech plugs and receptacles are UL and or CSA Listed"

My Furutech GTX-D(R) 20A 125V receptacle is, it's printed right on the box.
03-07-15: P59teitel

Then if the receptacle is connected to a 30 amp branch circuit, there in the branch circuit breaker is 30 amps, the UL listing is void. The manufacture warranty is null and void. The manufacture cannot be held liable for any misuse of the receptacle that maybe the cause of an electrical fire.
.

I spoke with my tech today and I asked him about the breaker panel question you had.
This fellow has worked on the master Krells as a Krell tech and is independent now almost retired status.
03-07-15: Ct0517

Ct0517,

When first reading the above two sentences I took that as the guy used to work for Krell as one of their techs. Reading it again that may not be the case. If that it not the case then I apologize for directly linking the tech to Krell Inc.
Jea48

the stock cord female end is labeled as 16 amps. the conversation was a noisy 5 minute phone call. He was implying I assume, that the cord could handle spikes. If he actually said 20 or 30 now I can't recall. I didn't pay much attention to this as I was calling him about the status of my Music Reference Amp.

What was of interest to me and the part I did pay attention to was how the breaker worked. Not just by heat but with the signal itself. Very interesting.

He said he thought the internal breaker might be 20 he's not sure and has only had to replace one. I did not ask him to confirm. Myself I would assume the breaker is going to be the same rating as the cord. He was very much against installing a 30 amp breaker in the fuse panel if the line is 20 amps. This part I remember and I made that clear in the previous post.

cheers
also

the female end of the Krell cord is unlike any of my other gear and has horizontal bars like this