Spikes between speakers & stands, up or down?


Okay so I am curious, I might try a set of spikes between a speaker and stand for a friend of mine. We are looking to replace the rubber stopper type pads to see how it sounds.

Coupling - Decoupling?

So I have seen both orientations of spikes, with them sticking "POINT UP" into the bottom of the speaker, which means installing the spike into the stand top plate, yes easier and less modification to messing with the speaker bottom.

Or "Point Down" which I assume is to drain the energy from the speaker down into the stand…

The bottom of the stands also already have nice solid brass spikes pointing into the floor of course, but I have just seen them again done both ways for the Stand to speaker but never reversed to the floor.

Another option which honestly might be the best is to try something that is NOT a spike device but rather a hard material of a metal flat foot or like Brass puck between the stand and speaker to transfer the energy vs. damping it and maybe loosing some resolution with the current Rubber pads?

Just looking for experience and what is suggested.. I think we rather stay away from spikes just due to the damage to the "spiked surface" and also due to drilling one or the other out to install them..

Also I have some Myrtle wood blocks which might even be a better Idea to give a shot? Keep it in the wood family and maybe get a solid energy transfer to the floor thru the stand that way?

Or maybe taking away the rubber will cause worse results who knows without experimentation right? I would assume the rubber is acting as a De coupler and any other hard material would work more as a Coupler.. So which would be better I guess?

Just don't want to buy anything till' there is a clear concensus on which is the correct direction to go with this.

Thanks      
undertow
I an using Chicago stands like Tiger. They are spiked pointing up to the speaker from the base plate, and also spiked at the base of the stand to the carpet over concrete floor. The speakers are fairly light weight sealed box design Triad System 3. The day I set them up they sounded great and I have not tried any other interface combinations. The spikes in the Chicago stands are held to the stand with lock nuts so they are not just resting on the top plate.
There are some extremely detailed, knowledgeable, lengthy and well written posts on this and similar topics. Search
the archives for lots of good information.

The purpose of a spike point is not to "drain" energy. It is to keep energy from passing by creating a mechanical impedeance mismatch. It also couples the items together, therefore assists in mass damping. These things occur whether the spike is up or down. The reason why you usually see spikes points up between the stand and speaker is probably because the speaker is less likely to fall off the stand if it vibrates too much or is bumped. This is not a problem for the spike between the stand and the floor (or between a floorstanding speaker and the floor) because the spike is screwed right in to the base of the item on top.
If nothing else works I would take a look at the orthopedic bunion gel toe cap. It looks like a good multi-use product.

http://www.healthyfeetstore.com/bunionstoes.html

I imagine it is very good for isolation and may be in the middle of the methods you are looking at.
Shardone, not so concerned about coloration so much as "are we restricting" any kind of energy transfer that if it was coupled to the stand opposed to being decoupled from the stand as it is now with rubber possibly getting better results in the foundation or resolution of the final sound that’s all. Thanks, guess its all experimentation, just figured why not see who has a solid opinion one way or the other.
Get some BluTack if this is for monitors on speaker stands. This will couple the speakers to the stand, fill the stand with sand and lead and make sure the stand is spiked to the floor.

http://www.blu-tack.co.uk/ available anywhere it's used to hold up posters on the wall.. Sounds like the "moongel" mentioned above also.

If you use spikes facing up from the stand to the bottom of the speaker, make sure to mass load the speaker with a bag of lead shot or sand.