Should I buy a Class A Amp.


I would Love to buy a Class A Amp. I have a Sony Tan-80ES Amp right now and I have had it for 19 yrs. To me it sounds Great but I am curious about Class A Amps. Do they really sound better? I am looking at a Krell KSA 200 Amp right now for $2000.00. It is older then my Sony. Is this too much for such an old Amp? Would Love to hear members thoughts on this.  

Blessings, ..........Don.
donplatt
cleeds,

The 300 series amplifiers operate as virtual perfect textbook cases as a "Voltage Source". This is to say that "They" will maintain whatever the appropriate voltage might be at any moment (given the demands of music, and within the rated output voltage of the amplifier) without any particular regard for the current demands of the loudspeaker.

Because of this "Voltage Source" characteristic, the 300 series amplifiers double their output everytime the loudspeaker impedance is cut by half. For example the no.336’s continuous output is 350 watts per channel @8ohms, 700 watts per channel @4ohms and 1400 watts @2 ohms- assuming the electrical circuit in the wall can support these extraordinary power levels. A "continuous" 2ohm test of the no.336 at maximum power would require 50 amperes at 120v.

No known high quality loudspeaker can absorb the continuous full power of the no. 336. However, many high quality loudspeakers can handle rather extreme power levels on a "Short Term" basis when reproducing music at realistic levels. The 300 series amplifiers answer these needs with impunity, without any power supply sag and without altering their sonic performance in any way.

Unfortunately, the thermal management problems in true Class A in a "High Current Output Stage" can be severe and offer sonic compromises of their own. For this reason, the Levinson 300 series are not Class A biased in a traditional fashion.
(All "Voltage Gain Stages" are biased to operate in full Class A mode in order to keep the active device safely within their most linear range at all times).

N
What a great thread has been created.  I need to make more friends like this. :)

The other thing, one not often mentioned, is that if your ears can't tell a difference, don't spend the money. Stereo equipment, like cars, rarely ages well. It's not worth spending $20 for a "better" amplifier if you can't hear the difference. OF course, reliability, size, power all matter too.  I just meant that no matter what the consensus may be of a particular piece of gear, spend your money for you, not others. :) That $20 could better be spent on a new LP.

Best,

Erik
I'm with czarivey...if you live in the Sakha region of Russia and you're at 20 degrees below freezing and hope to accomplish the dual task of listening to music while preventing hypothermia, buy yourself a nice Class A amp.   They make wonderful space heaters in the winter.    Otherwise, no thanks.  I personally went Class D and never looked back.    440wpc and you couldn't melt a slice of cheese on it.  Great sound + energy efficiency = happy times.
Why would class A operation make an amp slower? Is it inherent in the design? I don't understand these things.
Another question is is the full class A amp a simpler design that just has to be executed well to make sense?