High Current Outlet for Amps?

What’s the old saying, "measure twice, cut once". With 6 amps and the P10, it would be a good idea to add up all of the watts that will be drawing on that one circuit - especially @peak. Much will depend on the amps’ design: A, A/B, D, etc. The P10 alone delivers 1500 watts @peak. It’s unlikely that there is a 1:1 relationship of delivering 1500 peak watts / to drawing 1500 watts from the circuit. Capacitors change the correlation. But, there could be considerable benefit to installing two dedicated circuits while the work is being done. Earlier in this thread, dlcockrum nailed it with headroom and SQ. With my rig, I need to put my 1800w balanced power conditioner on a different circuit than my 200w Class A amp ( 350@idle - 1000 watts @peak). I can easily hear the loss of dynamics when everything is on the same circuit.

Audio Research specifically cautions that a power conditioner may or may not be the best solution - they don't say what to do tho (except to see your dealer).  I find that dealers rarely have EE degrees so don't rely on them.

Anyway you can decide that later... since there is no real cost increment, just get everything you can under your code (usually nearly the same all over the US if you are in the US).

You could wind up using a pure DC setup with ultra-capacitors or batteries fed by solar cells anyway...

Since you are doing a remodel, now is the time to think about the optimum dimensions, and construction, of a perfect listening room...

 Your homes physical location on the utilities grid can result unique noise issues that may require specific filtering or regeneration. The same goes for RF issues.

I found in my remodel that increasing the service amperage from 200 amp to 400 amp came with a new run of cable off the utilities grid. 

I used 20 amp breaker's in the new service panel but I loaded 10 gauge wire within metal BX conduit uninterrupted to metal  receptacle boxes (which may not be code in your area) to deal with RF issues in my area.

I doubled up the solid core ground wire from the new panel to a new larger and much longer ground spike. Not only were my RF issues gone but I noticed improvements in most all of our electrical devises. 

I had dedicated circuits put in (2 x 20A for my amps, and another 15A for my source components) and would recommend it.  My amps draw a lot of amperage but more importantly is that the circuits are isolated from other sources of noise that share the same circuit.

It's a no brainer if you are already in a remodel IMO.

hifiman5

The 20 amp receptacle is the same as the 30 amp one!  No difference at all.  You are just running 10 gauge wire connected to a 30 amp breaker in the service versus a 12 gauge wire connected to a 20 amp breaker.

A 20A device on a 30A breaker doesn't meet my local codes and probably isn't consistent with NEC, either.