Fidelity Research FR-64 vs. FR-54

Also, we seem to be assuming that the stainless steel arm tube is completely empty save for the wiring. I don’t know that it doesn’t incorporate any sort of "stuffing" that might also contribute to damping.

Hi Lewm,
Here is an article by Thomas Schick on rewiring a FR64 (not sure whether it was the FR64S)
http://thomas-schick.com/en/blog/fr-64
The second photo shows there was some black material clinging onto the internal wire harness, but I can’t tell whether it was just a piece of tape, or something like a shrink wrap. Either way, I don’t think it can be called damping, at least not for the armtube.

Lewm, Micheal Percy Audio sells some damping material called "EAR TAD Damping Foils" that 3M makes that is supposed to be the "cat's meow" for under damped tonearms, according to the dudes over at DIYAudio.  It's relatively cheap, but the trick is figuring out how much is enough.  You apparently don't want to wrap your whole arm with this stuff, but a little bit at the worst nodal spots is said to eliminate any ringing.  I'd guess halfway down the arm would be a good place to start, but I've never tried it.  I wonder if any other audiogon fans have ?

I'm not a customer for anything to damp my FR64S, as I have no reason to believe it's a problem in my system.  (See any or all of my earlier posts here.) I am using a Dynavector headshell on my FR64S and an Acutex LPM320 cartridge, which is a light weight MI type.  This tonearm/cartridge combo is arguably the most neutral of three other tonearm/cartridge combinations currently set up to work on 4 different turntables, in my two audio systems.  If I was having a problem with resonant colorations, I would simply get rid of the FR64S, instead of putting a bandaid on it. (Actually, I would first try the FR64S with a very low compliance MC, which is theoretically a better match than the FR64S with Acutex.)  The problem I certainly expected to have was to do with the mismatch of cartridge compliance (the Acutex cu = 42!) and tonearm effective mass.

Thekong, I have seen those photos by Thomas Schick.  I was thinking about them when I composed my last post, trying to recall whether his photos revealed any stuffing in the FR64S.  It's hard to know whether he removed some inert material before making his photos, so to clarify the situation with the wiring.  One could ask him, I guess.

Question for FR64S owners:

If you ever need to replace the original silver tonearm wire (internally) which wire will be your choice? Talking about internal tonearm wire only. Let me know.

I got this problem with my Lustre GST-801 tonearm. When i finally manaed to expand the hole in my luxman armboard to mount Lustre, i was so disappointed when i realized the internal cable is broken. Then i had to disassemble the hole tonearm in pieces like i did with the AK-47 in high school. Actually a well build tonearm, but i have to buy new wires. AUDIO NOTE Silver tonearm wire is expensive ( abut 65 GBP for 500mm), i don’t want the VDh silver wire, but maybe i will just buy Cardas 4x33 AWG copper (12 GBP for 500mm) or Discovery Copper Wire (about 28 GBP for 500mm). Any tips ?

P.S. As for the external cable i was thinking about Signal Cable Silver Resolution when i thought my original internal Lustre Silver Wire is ok, but it’s not ok.