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Quality of outlet not directly powering equipment important?

My new room that I have dedicated to music Has 5 outlets. They are all daisy chained around the perimeter of the room. They share nothing else on the circuit.  From left to right of the room, the power goes from 1-5.   The system is powered by outlet 4, which is an SR black.  The house was built with very poor outlets, the kind that literaly bite down on the wire using a hole for insertion and a quick release tab, not even screw down terminals.  

Upon seeing these POS outlets, which are in my "chain", I replaced outlets 1-3 with my collection of audiophile grade outlets. 1, with a wattgate 381 silver cryo, 2, with a teslaplex SE, And  3 with a furutech gtx-d (r).  I did this to at least have high quality links for the Romex to feed the SR BLACK (4).   I would assume that even with this "mix" of outlets in the chain, they must certainly be better than the absolute garbage outlets that were links in my electrical circuit.  I would imagine less voltage drop at the very least.
 
Now, outlet 5 remains a contractor POS outlet. Its technically past the system, but being that this AC, and not DC, wouldn't it technically also be part of the AC chain feeding the stereo? Would it behoove me to change that one out even though it's past the stereo and not before the stereo?
audiolover718
auxinput
1,538 posts
 

For the power, I'd suggest cryo'd 10awg romex.  You can get this from either Audio Sensibility or VH Audio.  It's pretty much $3/foot.  I would setup 20 amp circuits instead.  If you got the money, go for Furutech rhodium outlets (or equivalent).  Hubbell hospital grade outlets are good for high-current, but they do have their own sonic signature, which can be forward and solid-state/sterile.

For in-wall speaker, I don't know.  By code, it has to be CL rated, so you're pretty limited.  I dunno, Audioquest FLX?  You'll be able to get a better speaker cable if you just run it inside the room.

bcowen
68 posts
 
@jea48

Many thanks for the detailed explanation.  I guess I know what I'll be doing this weekend.

Lucky for me my neighbor works for Pass&Seymour, so it's time to hit him up for all the favors he'll undoubtedly owe me in the future.  A half-dozen free industrial grade engineering samples should work. :)
audiobill1
9 posts
 
test it with a circuit analyzer, ideal industries 61-164

alkaloid
45 posts
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I will start the researching. I have a few months time to gather the info as the first floor is being done first then I have to move down while the second floor is done and then back up. What about isolating all the electronics circuits?
longplayer
4 posts
 
If at all possible, install 30A dedicated lines for your audio system. It may seem like overkill, but I noticed a significant lack of congestion when I installed a 30A capable power conditioner on my 30A dedicated line. Previously, I was using a power conditioner rated at 20A from the same manufacturer. Some of the benefit is certainly from newer technology, but the music doesn't sag when it becomes demanding.
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