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Placement tips for Synergistic Research HTFs

I just bought 15 HTFs and will also be making about a dozen of Ozzie's homemade models.  While I will re-fresh myself with SR's placement tips, and I get that I will have to do some experimenting to tailor the HFT effect to MY listening room; are there any "Advanced HFT Placement Tips" some of you would like to share with us?  Something that might be overlooked by many of us?  Or maybe, just a good rule-of-thumb tip for someone just starting to use these?
The tips could be tips for bring out more highs, solidifying the bass response, placement hi vs low, in front of vs behind speakers, on side walls, at reflection points, behind the listener, on the ceiling above the equipment or above the listener, on the equipment.
Any ah-ha that you would like to share?  I would also be very interested in hearing from people using Magnapans.

toolbox149
toolbox149 OP
135 posts
 
A quick update,

I am totally sold on the Ozinators, and recommend you purchase the following components and sizes if you want to build some for yourself.

For the caps I went to:
valleyhydraulic.com
Brass 1/8" Female Pipe Cap
Our Products: Brass Fittings > Brass Pipe Fittings > Brass Caps and Plugs
http://www.valleyhydraulic.com/store/pc/Brass-1-8-quot-Female-Pipe-Cap-p1266.htm
They cost about $ .58 each with discounts for larger quantities. Plus shipping.

For the cones I Google:
Hareline Alaska Brass Cone - and buy them wherever they are in stock. They come in packs of 15 for $4.50 plus shipping.
These are 3/8" cones.   Don't bother with any smaller cones.
I'll be testing out some slightly larger cones in a few weeks but these work extremely well.

There are two ways to attach the cones into the caps. My preference goes to supergluing them together. Three little drops around the outer edge of the cap opening - then push the cone down & you're done. The other way is to insert a small ball of Blue Stik/Blue Tak into the cap and push the cone down into the cap.

The superglue models produce a lighter, more airy sound, the Blue Stik models have less pronounced highs which some might find beneficial.

I'll have more about this in a few days.

Enjoy!
Toolbox

toolbox149 OP
135 posts
 
Oh, I forgot.   For the superglue I used a small bottle of Gorilla Gel Superglue.  Very easy to use.

Toolbox

sabai
2,027 posts
 
If you follow Franck Tchang's diagrams regarding the high placement locations you may get good results. Regarding cones, it may be hard to the 10mm x 12mm beading cones that I mostly use. But this style on Ebay also works well for many locations. They protrude from the copper caps, but that is not a problem.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20mm-Bali-Style-100-Solid-COPPER-Fancy-Handmade-HONEYCOMB-CONE-Cap-Beads-16p...


sabai
2,027 posts
 
Typo above ... this should read "... it may be hard to find ... "
toolbox149 OP
135 posts
 
Thanks.
The Hareline Alaska Brass cones I mentioned are 9.5mm cones, which fit very well into the 1/8" caps. Not so well that they stick all by themselves. You will still have to glue them, but the cone edge is just a little bigger than the cap opening and the two pieces make an excellant match.
I have some larger cones on the way, but the Alaska Brass cones I mentioned sound really good and they are easy to find.  If you order them they will probably end up delivered within 3-4 days.  The caps took 4-5 days to arrive.  
The edge of the cones do protrude from the caps by about 1/8" but as you say, no problem. They sound fantastic.  
I'm currently experimenting with the 9.5mm cones mounted in slightly smaller bases and I've also built some mini-Ozinators using 1/4" or 8mm cones in brass compression sleeves.

Toolbox
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