Need suggestions please! Electrical noise in my system and it's driving me crazy!


So I have been battling with an electrical noise in my home since I moved in over a year ago. I've had two electricians check it out and have done hours of trouble shooting myself. 

I'm getting a hum or a buzz from anything with a transformer and a buzz through my speakers. Standard driver speakers and my Maggies. The house was built ten years ago and has everything up to code. Underground electrical lines. 2 ground rods outside the house. Just added a ground to all the copper plumbing and gas lines. I have a 200 amp panel in the house and a 100 amp panel in the garage. 

I have a Furman IT Reference 15 power conditioner and it's not doing jack. It's actually humming too. As far as trouble shooting I've mixed and matched equipment, speaker, and cables to eliminate that factor, I've also turned every breaker off one by one to find if it's something in the house that's dirtying up the electrical but even when I only had the one breaker that powered me system on, the noise was still there. 

I'm going crazy because my relaxing time is sitting and listening to my music in a dead silent room with a dead silent background and I no longer have that anymore. I can hear the buz, hum, and even a high pitch noise and it's ruining my hobby. Both electricians I've had in the house have no clue and and think I'm nuts anyway. 

Has anyone had an issue like this before? Could you fix it? How did you fix it? Please help! I'm about ready to sell all my equipment because it's annoying to listen to. 

Thanks,
Brian
gearheadmac
Post removed 
Edit to my post above.
In reference to whether your electrical service line is terminated in an inground jct box.
If the pad mounted power transformer is on an utility easement area of your property or a neighbor’s on either side of you, there is a good chance your service is ran directly to the transformer.
Eric said:

erik_squires
2,549 posts                                                                  09-01-2017 10:26pm

You don’t by any chance have multiple ground rods placed far apart?

Eric,

Per NEC the bare minimum distance ground rods can be earth driven apart from one another is 6ft. Further apart than 6ft is even better. General rule of thumb is you want the ground rods at least (2X) the length of the rod/electrode from one another.

ALL ground rods must be connected together and connect with one wire to one point, that being the electrical service entrance neutral conductor. NEC defines this as being one grounding electrode. The service entrance neutral conductor shall also be bonded, connected, to the metal enclosure of the electrical service equipment. (At one point only. The neutral conductor shall not be connected to ground at any point there after.)

What you don’t want, and maybe that was the intent of your post, is to have more than one earthed electrode, (as defined by NEC as I stated above), that is not connected directly to the electrical grounding system. An example of an indirectly earth ground connection would be the earth grounding connection of the grounding block for the coax shield of a CATV company’s coax cable. Or a Dish Satellite system. NEC code requires the grounding block shall be bonded, connected, the main grounding system of the electrical service. If the distance is greater than specified, there in the length of the ground wire used, A ground rod must be driven in the earth and a minimum #6 copper wire connect the ground rod to the main electrical service grounding electrode system. The main reason is for lightning protection.

Here is usually the case though. The electrical service maybe on one side of the house and the SAT Dish or CATV provider incoming coax cable and grounding block on another side of the house. Per NEC code the installer is supposed to drive a ground rod. A ground wire is installed from grounding block the the rod. THEN the installer is required, by code, to connect the ground rod to the main grounding electrode system of the electrical service by a minimum size #6 copper ground wire. How many installers install the minimum #6 copper ground wire?
So now two separate earth electrodes exist that will have a difference of potential, voltage, between them.

The coax cable, cable shield, will connects to the grounding block, and the other end connects to a piece of equipment like a SAT or CATV receiver box, and or modem. In some configuration a wire interconnect/s and or video cable will connect from the receiver box to audio and or audio/video equipment that uses a 3 wire cord and plug plugged into a grounding type wall outlet. A ground loop circuit is established. Complete with ground loop hum. Maybe some buzzing to boot too.

.

gearheadmac said:
"When it rained really hard the other night it was noticeably worse."

In my previous post I gave an example what may have been the reason why.
Another might be, (Eric, your post got me thinking about this one.)

More moisture content increasing ground rod to earth conductivity.

As a rule that would not cause the buzz/hum sound the OP is hearing through his speakers to worsen.... JMHO....
But what if there is corrosion in the one or more of the connections in the service neutral conductor somewhere from the utility power transformer through the outside meter socket? (I would rule out the connection in the main 200 amp electrical service panel because the OP said the electrician checked all connections for tightness, and I assume corrosion.)

Any arcing in a feeder conductor connection that feeds an electrical panel could cause an electrical noise buzz in audio equipment that is fed from that feeder by way of the electrical panel, imo. Like RF it would be transferred through the electrical wiring of the house. Again JMHO....

( I should note here, only the imbalanced 120V loads of L1, leg, to neutral, and L2, leg, to neutral, return on the service neutral conductor back to the source, the utility transformer. Depending on how well the 120V loads are balanced across L1 and L2 as a rule the service neutral conductor will not carry all that much current back to the source.)

Current will take any path provided to get back to the source if a path is provided. It prefers the path of least resistance, but it will take any path provided.
If there possibly is corrosion or even if a connection is not tight somewhere in the service neutral conductor, the grounding electrode, (ground rods), for the electrical service could carry some neutral current through the less resistive soil, due to the rain, back to the source, the utility power transformer. But I don’t think that would amplify the OP buzzing sound problem he is hearing through the speakers of multiple audio systems in his home. If anything it probably should have lessened the buzzing sound. (Parallel path provided.)
(Note: Usually the transformer neutral, at the utility transformer, is bonded, connected, to earth to an earth driven ground rod inside the wire connection compartment of the transformer.Transformer steel enclosure is also bonded to the ground rod.

Cut to the chase..... I would look to see if a ground rod was driven for the grounding block of the CATV system coax cable shield. If so I would further check to see if its’ installation meets bare minimum NEC code standards/requirements.
If improperly installed that might/could account for why the OP found the night it rained really hard the buzzing sound was worse. (Better ground rod to soil conductivity. Also less soil resistivity due to more soil moisture content.) The shield of the CATV coax cable could have been/was carrying neutral current. Not only the shield but the branch circuit equipment grounding conductor that was part of the coax cable shield ground loop circuit. JMHO of course...... It would be interesting to know, what if, the OP had disconnected the CATV coax cable at the point ahead of the coax signal splitter that feeds the internet Modem and coax cable/s to CATV receivers elsewhere in the house the night of the heavy rain. Though I did suggest in my earlier post to totally disconnect the CATV coax cable from any thing it is connected to.

(Though even the next day the buzz/noise should have still been worse than before the heavy rain. That kind of makes me go back to my previous post.)

~ ~ ~ ~

At this point all conjecture. The more info the OP can provide the better.

@ gearheadmac ,
Is the main service disconnect breaker inside the 200 amp electrical panel inside the house or outside the house near the electric meter? Or possibly inside a common metal enclosure with the electric meter?

Jim

I've had similar issues more than once -  the first time - I narrowed it down to the cable tv box -  so I just don't have it hooked up anymore -  but to nail it down - I removed every component from the system one at a time - power as well as any ground or interconnect that connects any single component to the system - this at least identified the culprit component.  

The second time was a lot more complicated -  i had an annoying hum in one speaker ( ml Clx ). I switched my mono blocks from left to right - hum stayed with the speaker -  i switched boards from one speaker to the other - stayed with the speaker -  removed all Inputs from the amps - still had the hum - now I was convinced that I needed to buy a new panel - and was going to swap the hf panel from left to right to see if it moved with the panel - or stayed with the speaker - I had just bought a new rack - so was plannning on tearing it all down and rebuilding the layout -  getting rid of any redundant wiring connections -  example - having one source hooked up to two different dacs -  or to the same Dac in different ways - USB as well as spdif etc. so I go rid of a lot of redundant cabling -  I took each component into my workshop - took the covers off - blew everything off with an air compressor -  then spent time cleaning every connection on the outside of the chassis with deoxit and pipe cleaners - then again using the gold version of deoxit - do this on all your IC's and power cords as well 
 
Put it all back together -  and the hum was completely gone -

im just suggesting that although it's a lot of work - cleaning the connections is necessary maintenance at some point anyways - and by doing this - you can pull out - and put back in - each component one at a time to nail down the culprit ( if it happens to be a single component -  and benefit from knowing every component now has no oxidation issue that might be contributing -  and when putting it back together 
 

@erik_squires,

My apologizes for misspelling your name in my last post.

Best regards,
Jim