Pangea AC14XL removeable ground plug


I bought this Pangea AC14XL to replace a Cardas for two reasons.  The primary is the removable ground plug.  The ground humming noise from my Passlabs X150 is very annoying.  I tried different products and none of them work perfectly, the only effective way Passlabs support advised me was cheater plug which works but not really happy using one with Cardas power cable and Passlabs amp.  So the removeable ground plug solves the humming issue without using cheater plug.  The second reason is the deathgrip.  Cardas power cable is stiff so it gets loose over time (mine gets loose on amp end)  I like this cable being securely connected.  The cable is new so not ready to judge sound yet.  The initial impression is neutral.

Does anybody use power cable with removeable ground plug, and what is your opinion on this old but persist topic; and Passlabs owners do you get ground humming noise?  I have used X3, X250 and X150, all has ground humming sound.  If so, how did you solve it?  Thanks
alexlhsu
It is kind of the same thing though ... cheater plug or a power cord with a removable ground pin on the plug.  It is just that mentally how do I use a 49 cent cheater plug with an amp that costs thousands of dollars?

Not preaching.  I am no better.  I did the same with a Prima Luna amp and a PS Audio 3 cord.  It did its job.  

Keep in mind that not all components cooperate.  I had a Stanton turntable with a built in phono preamp and cheater plugs, power cords with removable pins, etc. could not get rid of the hum.  There was a hacker fix to bypass the phono preamp, but I did not want to do surgery.  I just lived with it.


Rich 
Using a cheater plug or removing the ground pin are both a safety hazards and should only be used to identify a ground loop problem.  Removing the safety ground should never be implemented as a solution. 
If your amp draws less than 6 amps and 720 watts of power, you can use an Ebtech HumX to safely eliminate the ground loop on the offending piece of equipment.  They cost less than $100
brf
Using a cheater plug or removing the ground pin are both a safety hazards and should only be used to identify a ground loop problem.  Removing the safety ground should never be implemented as a solution.
+1.  Removing a safety ground treats only the symptom of the problem, rather than addressing its root cause. With proper grounding methods - such as star grounding - there's no reason to limit safety in the interest of reducing noise or hum.
cleeds835 posts10-04-2017 7:23am brf
Using a cheater plug or removing the ground pin are both a safety hazards and should only be used to identify a ground loop problem. Removing the safety ground should never be implemented as a solution.
+1. Removing a safety ground treats only the symptom of the problem, rather than addressing its root cause. With proper grounding methods - such as star grounding - there’s no reason to limit safety in the interest of reducing noise or hum.
Agree!

.

@ alexlhsu,

What other associated audio/video equipment is connected ahead of the amp?
Just because you lifted the safety equipment chassis ground from the amp, by removing the ground pin from the AC power cord plug, doesn’t mean the amp is the cause of the ground loop/ground loop hum. Removing the ground pin only broke, opened, the completed ground loop circuit thereby stopping the hum. The offending piece of equipment causing the ground loop could be upstream from the amp.

Through the process of elimination you should be able to find the culprit.
Start with only the power amp and preamp connected together with interconnects. Disconnect all other pieces of front end equipment from all the inputs of the preamp. Unplug all the other equipment from the AC power receptacle outlets.

Power up the preamp and power amp and check for hum.
If hum, are both pieces plugged into the same AC power duplex receptacle outlet? If not, do so and then check for hum.

IF no hum, connect one piece of front end equipment to the inputs of the preamp and check for hum.

Jim