A better lamp cord for my stereo equipment?


A lot of space goes to the 14, 12, 10 gauge, monster-sized, plug in, power cables.  Rightfully so.   I have my favorite power cables in place on my amps and also on some of my source equipment. But, some of us have older pieces in our systems and many of these older pieces do not have the plug in, switchable cords. I have a few pieces that were built with the old, permanent, lamp cords.
I've alwys wondered about those cords, but I never see any posts about them. Service people don't like the idea of drilling out the cord opening in older equipment to allow for thicker gauge wires, so we seem to be stuck with similar sized cords.
Have any of you ever upgraded/replaced your cords on older equipment?  Do you know of a better grade of lamp cord out there?  Would just replacing the plug help?
toolbox149
Local audio repair guy wouldn't touch it. Now I know why.
Or possibly he didn't have the confidence in installing the IEC power inlet. What if in the process of cutting the hole for the IEC inlet he screwed something up? How many "repair guys" cut holes in the outside panels of audio equipment?

Did the "repair guy" specifically tell you he was prohibited from installing the IEC power inlet? 
JEA
Bingo. I think you just hit the nail on the head. The two times I broached this topic with audio techs the excuse for not doing the conversion was they didn't want to drill/cut into the back of the unit. (We wouldn't want to drill holes in your Mc C-20. That would diminish it's resale value.")
It was never a question of legalities. Otherwise, if a tech couldn't legally work within/on the power supply, you'd have to junk any piece of equipment that ever developed a problem with the power supply.


oopwah
6 posts                                                                            10-28-2017 7:46am

I have added an IEC receptacle to several of my older components with great success! It is fairly easy, and the vast array of powercord tech is then at your dispense. As a matter of fact most of the gear was mid fi and it responded very well. Just order a couple of receptacles, get a dremel tool with some cutoff disc. Make a pattern for the opening , mark tht rear panel and take your time. It usually takes me about 1.5 hours, then used canned air to clean out debris and connect. This process has now been made easier with the new IEC receptacles which have screw connections. Give it a try it is WELL WORTH the time and the older powercords are very inexpensive here on Audiogon.
I have read many posts on Audio Asylum where guys have asked others how to cut the hole for the male IEC power inlets. The Dremel tool seems to be the preferred method. For any one interested they can search the AA archives.

First you made sure you had room for the IEC power inlet. Sometime there is not room on the back panel to install the power inlet. I imagine you considered how it might affect the resale value of the piece equipment. Especially if the equipment has appreciated in value as it has aged over the years.

oopwah, If I may ask.
Was any of the equipment you installed the IEC inlets older 2 wire cord and non polarized plug audio equipment?
If yes did you install a 2 wire male IEC power inlet or a 3 wire grounding type power inlet?
If 3 wire did you connect the equipment ground pin of the power inlet to the metal chassis of the equipment?
Did any of the equipment have an AC line noise capacitors connected from one AC power line to the chassis? Did you remove the cap? Sometimes a resistor is connected from one AC power line to the chassis. Did you remove the resistor?

I assume you made sure the HOT pin of the power IEC inlet connector was connected to the inline fuse and power on/off switch of the equipment.

By chance did you take the time to check for the proper AC polarity orientation of the power transformer?

Thanks in advance for you response,
Jim

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Put snap-on ferrite beads on them. Very inexpensive. Can help clean out EMI/RFI clutter.

Check the internal diameter:

http://amzn.to/2Dig2Pc