Current, Amperage

Most focals require extra current in the 100Hz range due to relatively low 3 ish impedance. Not an amp killing situation, but I do find that they sound a little soft in the bass unless the amp is stiff.

Don't need a high power ratimg, but they will are relatively "discrimimating" when it comes to amplifier current delkvery. An unfortunate trait for otherwise highly praised and affordable line

@Erik_Squires 
this is really was the essance of my original question. 
So, how much ‘current’ do I need? And, is this a rating or spec that is provided? 

I have 936's which are a bit harder to drive than the 826's. I'm using a modified First Watt F5. It does 64 watts and drives them very nicely. A good quality solid state class A rating of 25 to 30 watts will drive them just fine. Class AB, I'd go 75 watts at the least. My 52 watt Marantz got real thin sounding when asked to make good volume. 

i have a mcintosh mc602 power amp. it has 150 amperes per chanell. where does this stand in power amps?

The amperes/channel spec is basically meaningless along with most other ampere ratings. Current is a function of (ohm) load and will swing as the load varies across the frequency range. My rule of thumb is picking a reputable (voltage source) amp that doubles its power as the load is halved is usually a good starting point. Adding a class A design is icing on the top if the extra heat is not a concern. Current source amp tend to pair much better with (very) high efficiency single driver speakers, based on my albeit limited experience.