How much do I need to spend to get a preamp that sounds better than no preamp?


Hello all.
I'm using an Audible Illusions L1 preamp and I think my system sounds better when I remove it from the signal path. Oppo BD105 directly to SMC Audio DNA1 Gold power amp. I have read that there is level of quality you need to hit before there will be an improvement in sound. I can't seem to find what that level is. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance,
Ben
honashagen
@georgehifi "Here is a person you should kneel to as he is one who makes active preamps for a reason which I’ve outlined, yet he is man enough to tell what it is about passives that’s the real deal."

Kudos to Nelson for being man enough.

Speaking of being man enough... As Ralph said you go off like a $5 pistol. I’ll add, routinely. As an example, @georgehifi , you went off half-cocked, and initiated a thread on Stereophile no longer performing measurements even though it was completely incorrect. For the longest time, the myriad (Sam Tellig, Art Dudley, Kal Rubinson, Lisa Astor, and on and on) columns never included measurements as they were subjective writings and meant to entertain and sell magazines. Sometimes, the follow-ups to the more formal reviews also do not include a new set of measurements. If you had an iota of the stones you stand up on your soapbox and claim you have, and within all the time and energy you have chasing down all the things you do, you would have issued a mea culpa. At least, THAT’S what a man does...

Regarding active versus passive preamplifiers, the world is big enough for both of them. I run direct from my digital sources, and have / had and use both active AND passive preamplifiers. All three options have their place, can provide a rewarding experience to the owner, and none is incorrect. I have respect for both you (honestly, you deserve plaudits and more for the Lightspeed) and Ralph in terms of the preamplifier solutions you put forth. But I doubt I’m the only one who feels your showing up in the innumerable threads you have to crap all over the idea of folks wanting / enjoying / needing an active preamplifier to the point of their being wrong / stupid / duped / fraudulent got old a long time ago.

Lastly, I find it beyond unfair to the point of immoral to paint folks like Ralph as someone putting profit before his dedication, belief in the knowledge / experience he’s developed over the past 45 - 50 years, craftsmanship, and overall audio landscape
Regarding active versus passive preamplifiers, the world is big enough for both of them.
Yes and I’ve always maintained that, and so does Nelson Pass
But when someone of no acknowledged tech background put **** on what Nelson Pass says about passive preamp, of course I’m going to have a go at him, as should you!

BTW: are you a "fuser"?
I think I may have seen you be pro fuses in posts and what "magic" they can do .

Cheers George
@georgehifi 
I think you're the one talking the smack about the Aleph L. A couple pages back you were insisting there were secret patented components missing from the service manual to make it work like you swear it does. 
" It is a provisional patent, which has maybe been granted by now on this special circuit, he may not have given the secrete to how he bypasses the "active stage" in the the schematic so it runs totally passive, after all it is patented."

Yeah, you DID completely reinterpret the man to suit your understanding.

"Same goes for my Lightspeed Attenuator there is nothing active or any switch contacts in the signal path just a passive ldr, yet it is powered by the mains for the leds to function. Yet it is a passive preamp with no gain."
https://ibb.co/choBZS

That is NOT a passive circuit. Those are active devices the signal is going right through. They’re obviously powered, and they’re obviously providing current gain.

You’re the one mischaracterizing things things left and right. You even falsely label the B1 Buffer in that schematic.

Nelson Pass from the B1 Buffer article:
" All of the transistors are N channel JFETs. The stock parts are 2SK170’s, LSK170’s or 2SK370’s, and you can use substitutes having Idss between than 5 and 10 milli-Amps and transconductance numbers from 5 to 30 milli- Siemens."

What is wrong with you?