How much do I need to spend to get a preamp that sounds better than no preamp?

Oppo Tech, et al

when I come off full volume on tmy 105 either the bits are dropping, or the VC is too sensitive as the result is loss of damn near everything. I am hoping that the Hattor will solve that problem, and it is a problem

As to the extra I/Os with the Hattor, I think any that not being used are out of the signal path, but I will only be using 2 outs at the most. Still working on solving the opposite problem with my SVS servo subs (volume comes on too quickly) . Maybe a buffer is needed, or maybe SVS servo sub tech sucks. Thinking I might need to get passive subs and use an outboard amp/s  

Nord makes an interesting integrated (I am now jonesing for their amp),. Imagine that with LDRs

Imagine that with LDRs

You can get more linear response with a Baxandall control FWIW.

@analogluvr 
Thanks man! I appreciate kind words!

I installed a Hattor XLR late Friday. It took about an hour to begin sounding good, and maybe just now has hit its sweet spot. It certainly  solved most of the problems driving the 105 direct.

It has a lot more VC control, in addition to a significantly reduced noise floor and a much bigger sound stage. I was surprised by how much bass was missing from the 105 direct to amps.

If your budget is in the ~ $1000 range, I highly recommend it, BUT, it is such a microscope that it will expose lessor kit in your system. After a day with a Cullen power cord and PS Audio XLRs, I switched to Surf Cables XLRs (great audio bargain) and WireWorld PC. These significantly warmed up the sound. Pretty sure my Emerald Physics class D 100.2 SE amps need replacing now. Guessing the chips are 2-3 generations old.

I always scratch my head at "passives" with big heatsinks.