Have Passive Preamps Finally Come of Age?


Back in the late 90s (eons ago) I tried a variety of passive preamps (PPs). The most musical was an autoformer, but back then my system was not balanced. For the last decade I have been using active preamps, both tube and solid state, but finding a quality balanced preamp under $4K is damn near impossible. Enter the Parasound P5 (2.1), which in addition to having balanced I/Os, it has a separate bass management circuit (MSRP $1095), and I was hoping it would provide better control over the built in class D plates incorporated into my 2 SVS powered subs, whose volume controls are STUPIDLY sensitive: when barely cracked from zero they overwhelm. Alas, no bueno. 

Recently i watched a PS Audio YT video that was emphatic about NOT connecting powered subs with interconnects; instead he recommends speaker cables piggybacked off the main systems amp/s. I had a spare set of DIY flat copper cables, and was shocked how much better they sounded, but doing so did not change the  volume control problem and unfortunately this id not bypass the SVS amps whose class D chips are now ancient. Thinking there could be an impedance problem led me to revisit PPs.

I sold my P5 and was using the XLR outs from my Oppo 105 (upgraded power supply and IEC/wiring to the power supply) direct to my Emerald Physics 100.2SEs (class D). The noise floor dropped tremendously, allowing me a much better view into the music. My Core Power Technologies 1800 PLC had more than a little to do with this, but...  

Days of PP research later, I came across LDRs, which seem like the ultimate PP option, but XLR versions are ~ $2K and up, with the Tortuga coming in at $2700, seems like a true SOTA bargain, just not in my current budget. Scouring the' for sale' sites I came across a Hattor XLR (MSRP $995) which was in my price range. Hattor's www had links to 2 reviews both were extremely positive: one used it in combination with a class D amp. Bingo! I snapped it up.

It arrived late yesterday, although Hattor's www pictures look awesome, they do not compare to seeing and touching it. The metal carrying case was an indication of the designer's dedication. This is an etremely well made piece of kit, but how does it sound? Alas it came with no manual and Hattor's site does not have a PDF. How hard can it be to hook up? Well, after a couple scary minutes, I discovered that it would not light up until I connected the 105. 

Stone cold, the first thing that shocked me was a further reduction in noise floor and an incredibly wide and deep sound stage, but as can be expected, it was dry. Fingers crossed, in about a half hour I began to be rewarded with texture as well. Tis only got better as the night wore on

I hope somebody chimes in with their Tortuga experience, or any other high quality PP information.that goes under the reporting radar. 
tweak1
Question is not which pre-amp but why there is floor noise:
a) bad or wrong wiring?
b) one element Is damaged.

so to rebuilt piece by piece the system and everything will go in the right way. Could be the pre-amp but also something else. 

Personally i I use an “AM Audio PRE 04F”.. pure art of electronic building. No noise, no distortion, no bass nor high adjustments.. just volume and selector knobs... price below 2k
.
regards
George always leaves out the rest of Nelson's words
Because 90% of systems are a great match for passives, and are the most dynamic /transparent way of getting the source to the amp except for going direct if you can do it without "bit stripping".
Here's Wadia take on going direct and Mark Levinson does the same.
https://ibb.co/kc4OCo


Cheers George
atmasphere

As was mentioned already, Hattor offers  PASSIVE and BUFFERED

Mine is PASSIVE
lartecafe, Do you mean the kind of noise that putting your ear against the speaker with no music playing but volume wide open?
Because 90% of systems are a great match for passives, and are the most dynamic /transparent way of getting the source to the amp except for going direct if you can do it without "bit stripping".
While the first half of this is false, I do agree that bit stripping is not a good way to do a volume control. You don't want to lose resolution when turning down the volume.

@tweak1 Sorry, I misread your initial post.